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Mystery Blanket Club - post 10, December, the final instalment!

HELLO AND WELCOME TO THE FINAL INSTALMENT OF THE 2022 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB! After ten months of fun and surprises, we have reached the end of our knitting journey with the final pieces of the puzzle revealed. When I look back at the year it’s been a challenging one for several reasons, but I am so proud of all my lovely members who have coped so magnificently with all the ups and downs and kept spirited and enthusiastic throughout the whole project. It’s you who keep me going, so thank you for all your kindness and support and for being such super members!

In this final blog there is lots of help and advice to get you across that all important finishing line, and of course there is the big reveal of the blanket title! So why don’t you make yourself a cuppa (biscuit optional but recommended!) and sit back and relax and watch my intro vid before you get stuck into your December squares. In my vid I talk about the inspiration behind the project and give you an insight into my design process, all of which I hope will give you a better understanding of what you’ve been knitting for the past ten months. All you’ve got to do is press play…

THERE ARE NO NEW TECH VIDS THIS MONTH, but at the end of this index I have included a link to a previous blog from the 2021 Mystery Blanket which shows you how to pick up stitches along the top, bottom and side edges. You might find this useful for the edging on this year’s blanket.

This is the complete list of tech vids for this year, just in case you need to nip back to them to check out a technique:

  • How to thread beads onto yarn MARCH
  • How to bead, the slip-stitch method MARCH
  • How to bead, the hooking-in method MARCH
  • Razzle Dazzle: Chevron stitch MARCH
  • Diamonds: T3R and T3L MARCH
  • Diamonds: T2R and T2L MARCH
  • How to attach a rhinestone stud to knitting MARCH
  • Squares 15 & 16, Lanvin: lace stitches APRIL
  • Square 36, Suave: P1tbl, K1tbl, c9b, c9f APRIL
  • How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge MAY
  • How to knit the decorative slip-stitch stripe MAY
  • How to pick up stitches using a long tail & ‘m1’ MAY
  • The fairisle technique MAY
  • How to knit the decorative beaded loop stitch MAY
  • Mattress stitch (horizontal) AUGUST
  • Mattress stitch (vertical) AUGUST
  • Three-needle bind-off AUGUST

In the link below to the November MBC21 blog, scroll down the page to see two tech vids, Picking up stitches along a cast-on edge for the Edging and Picking up stitches along a selvedge edge for the Edging: https://debbieabrahams.com/blogs/news/mystery-blanket-club-2021-post-10-november-the-final-instalment

THE PRINTED PATTERNS HAVE BEEN POSTED BUT WE HAD A COUPLE OF HICCUPS WITH THEM THIS MONTH, so they may arrive a little late. In addition to the twice weekly strikes by the Royal Mail (every week now up until Christmas), the printer’s stapling machine broke down last week and they could not get an engineer out to them until the 28th November. After a fretful few days the patterns were delivered that same afternoon and I rushed them straight down to the post office to send them on their way. The UK and overseas were all posted on the same day so for some of the overseas there may be a slightly longer wait than usual (although we are finding that some of our overseas post is arriving before our UK post!) So if you are waiting for your printed patterns but want to make a start, you have access to the digital file which we emailed to you, and remember that you can also download the file from your Debbie Abrahams account.

I apologise for this delay as I know how eager some of you are to get started on this final instalment. However, you can rest assured that the printed patterns are on their way, and with a bit of luck they will be delivered to you soon. Thank you for your patience.

THERE ARE NO PHOTOS OF THE COMPLETED OPTION TWO BLANKET IN THE DECEMBER MAIL-OUT. However, I will be including some in the Member’s Gallery blog in January. We will let you know by email as soon as it goes live…

THE 2023 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB SOLD OUT EARLIER THIS MONTH, HOWEVER, WE HAVE SOME EXCITING NEWS IF YOU DIDN’T MANAGE TO GRAB YOURSELF A MEMBERSHIP! UK spinners Laxtons, who are producing the bulk of the yarn for the blanket, have confirmed that we are going to get some extra yarn on top of our original order. When fibre is spun and dyed, the exact quantity produced is unknown as there are many factors that affect it during its journey through the mill. However, this extra yarn means that we can open up another 50 memberships.

We have put the 2023 Mystery Blanket product back in the shop so you can pop over there now if you want to sign up. We have quite a long waiting list for the blanket, so if you want a membership it would be wise to head straight over to our shop sooner rather than later. After this final batch we will not be able to get anymore of this bespoke yarn so once these 50 memberships are sold, the Club will be closed. Best keep an eye on your inbox!

IN THIS FINAL INSTALMENT THERE ARE FOUR SQUARES TO KNIT:

Square 25, Deco Dreams – hooked-in beads, decorative stripes, Swiss-darned details and a rhinestone (same for both options):

Square 26, Boudoir – cable pattern with hooked-in beads (same for both options):

Squares 27 & 28, Cartier 2 (Option One) – textured stripes, fairisle, hooked-in beads and a decorative beaded slip-stitch detail:

 

Squares 27 & 28, Cartier 2 (Option Two) – stripes and slip-stitch beads with basic fairisle rows:

On each pattern page there is a list of Pattern notes and tips that are worth reading before you start to knit each square. These bits of advice will help you and give pre-warnings as to what look out for in the pattern instructions. Also take note of the description under the title of each square as this tells you what the stitch structure is.

Here are a few extra tips to assist you:

SQUARE 25, Deco Dreams – this is the centrepiece of the blanket and it draws on inspiration from several other squares in the blanket to create a super glamourous focal point. There is no second option so everyone will knit the same pattern for Square 25.

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

  • How to bead, the hooking-in method MARCH
  • How to attach a rhinestone stud to knitting MARCH
  • How to knit the decorative slip-stitch stripe MAY

For the Swiss-darning in this square you can see a tech vid for this in the February blog of the 2021 Mystery Blanket. This link will take you to the page, simply scroll down through the videos and you will see it (Square 15, The King’s Palace, Swiss-darning): https://debbieabrahams.com/blogs/news/mystery-blanket-club-2021-post-1-february

This highly decorative square is full of glitter and sparkle, however it’s a fairly easy one to knit, perhaps just a little time consuming. But it will be worth it! The hooked-in beads for the outer diamond are in alternate rows of Teal and Bronze - if they are difficult to see on the image on page 6, check out the chart on page 8 where they can be seen more clearly.

The inner beaded diamonds are in a solid colour, the next one in uses Pebble beads and then the centre one uses Gold beads. Again, these might be easier to see on the chart on page 8.

I usually use the symbol of a ‘X’ to represent a reverse stitch on my charts (P on RS, K on WS). However, in this chart it is used to represent the Swiss-darned stitches. This is mentioned in the Pattern notes and tips on page 6, but I thought it was worth saying it again now, just in case you miss it and start purling these stitches.

If you have any spare rhinestones or buttons, you could add them to this square to make it even more glam. I stuck very modestly to just one rhinestone, but extra embellishments would be fabulous to finish it off!

SQUARE 26, Boudoir: you knitted this square for the first-time last month and this is a straight repeat. However, you will probably remember it for all the wrong reasons as there were several corrections to the pattern – no excuses from me, just some very senior moments! Well, I’m glad to say that in the pattern instructions for this square all of the corrections have been done and it is 100% correct. So you can knit away quite merrily and hopefully enjoy it much more this time round!

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

  • How to bead, the hooking-in method MARCH
  • Square 36, Suave: P1tbl, K1tbl, c9b, c9f APRIL
  • How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge MAY

Having knitted this square very recently you might not need too much assistance with it. However, I have listed the tech vids for the cables in Square 36, Suave, (see above) as a point of reference only - they are not exactly the same, but they show you the basics of cabling which is what you are doing in this square, they are just different stitch combinations.

Remember to use the slightly smaller needle for this square, it’s a 3.00mm for those of you who are knitting to tension (one metric size down from the suggested main knitting needle size). This will help keep the stitches neat and even, and the size of the square consistent with the others in the blanket.

SQUARES 27 & 28, Cartier 2 (Option One) – to complete your blanket squares this month you are knitting a repeat of Squares 22 & 23. And as mentioned on page 13 of your December mail-out, I recommend that you knit the same option that you chose for these squares.

Videos to watch for assistance with these squares:

  • How to bead, the hooking-in method MARCH
  • How to knit the decorative slip-stitch stripe MAY
  • The fairisle technique MAY
  • How to knit the decorative beaded loop stitch MAY

These are busy pieces of knitting with a lot going on, and I thoroughly enjoyed working on the different sections of pattern and the quick change from one technique to another. There’s no time to get bored, you’re more likely to be spurred on to get to the end! Just keep your eye on the pattern, don’t miss anything out, and take note of the needle size changes – there are a few.

I mentioned in the October blog that there is an option to sew buttons onto Squares 22 & 23, and the same applies to these squares if you have enough left over. This image shows where they need to be positioned, there are ten buttons (they are not shown in the images in the mail out):

When you have completed Squares 27 & 28 you will need to block them to the correct measurements. This is 18cm across in width and 36cm down in length. The halfway point of this panel is row 67, which is in the middle of the Pickles section with the beaded loops.

SQUARES 27 & 28, Cartier 2 (Option Two) – this is the easier option of the two, and you should choose this option if you knitted Option Two for Squares 22 & 23:

Videos to watch for assistance with these squares:

  • How to bead, the hooking-in method MARCH
  • How to knit the decorative slip-stitch stripe MAY
  • How to thread beads onto yarn MARCH
  • How to bead, the slip-stitch method MARCH

There’s a bit of basic fairisle to contend with, slip-stitch and hooked-in beading, and some textured stripes too, so like Option One, there’s a lot of variety of techniques to keep you going! And as you’ve knitted this one before, you should be able to sit back and really enjoy it...

When you have completed Squares 27 & 28 you will need to block them to the correct measurements. This is 18cm across in width and 36cm down in length. The halfway point of this panel is row 70, which is in the middle of the decorative slip-stitch stripe using Svelte and Royal.

Congratulations! You’ve completed your final squares of the blanket!

WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR DECEMBER SQUARES YOU CAN KNIT TWO OF THE EDGINGS BEFORE YOU SEW THE FINAL STRIP INTO PLACE. In the Finishing and Edging instructions which begin on page 23 of your December mail out, you are advised to join strip 4 into the blanket after knitting the right-hand and left-hand edgings. This is because it will be much easier to pick up the stitches when the blanket is in two pieces, rather than picking them up when the blanket is one whole piece.

If you have knitted your squares separately then first of all you will need to join them together to create the final strip which is number 4 (Squares 22-28). If you haven’t joined together the squares for all the other strips, then you will need to do this now so that all seven strips are completed.

The step-by step process for finishing the blanket is given for both options on page 23 of the December mail-out.

THERE IS ONE PATTERN FOR THE EDGING – so this year everyone is knitting the same one. It’s a garter stitch stripe with a decorative textured stripe running through the middle of it. Along the side edges this is knitted straight with mitred edges at each end. However, on the top and bottom edges it is shaped across the chevron stitch patterns on Squares 1 & 7, 15 & 21, 29 & 35, and 43 & 49. There are increases and decreases along these edges, and this is where all those stitch markers are needed to mark out the stitches. This is really important to do so that you can keep a constant check on the number of stitches in each section.

I have written a note on page 23 about the colours used in the edging. Some of you may have mixed up your options and knitted some Option One and some Option Two. And as you can imagine, if this is the case then there will be many variations of the completed design with differing quantities of yarn used. Each row in the edging uses approximately 2g of yarn, so if you are worried that you may run short of any of the colours, it is advisable to weigh your yarn (preferably on scientific scales), to make sure you have enough. And if you don’t, then use other colours that you do have enough of. Your blanket will still look fabulous and a slight change to your edging will make it look even more unique!

In last month’s blog I told you what you would need to knit the edgings, but here is a reminder:

  • two circular 2.50mm (US n/a) (UK n/a) 80cm/100cm length needles
  • two circular 3.25mm (US 3) (UK 10) 80cm/100cm length needles
  • 27 stitch markers

You could get away with using one circular needle, which you will need in each of the two sizes. However, I found it easier to use two circular needles to knit each edging – I used them like two very long needles, knitting the stitches from one needle to the other (you are knitting flat, not in the round).

Remember that if you’ve not matched the tension using the suggested main needle size (3.25mm) and have had to change to larger or smaller needles for your squares, you will also need to change your needles accordingly for the edgings.

You are instructed to swap needle sizes a few times when you knit the edgings. This is to ensure that the tension is maintained throughout the changes in stitch structure, so it is important to take notice of this if you want super neat edgings!

For both options, make sure that you cast off the stitches to complete the edgings neatly and evenly as these are finished edges. The edgings are cast off using a 3.00mm straight needle (or circular), but you are advised to cast off using a larger needle than this if the cast-off edge is too tight.

FOR GUIDANCE AS TO HOW TO PICK UP STITCHES FOR THE EDGINGS YOU CAN USE THE LINK AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS BLOG WHICH TAKES YOU TO THE 2021 MYSTERY BLANKET BLOG. There you will find tech vids for picking up stitches along selvedge edges and cast-on and cast-off edges.

On the pattern pages for each of the edgings I have advised how many stitches to pick up along the edge of each square, so it is essential that you read this very carefully and stick to it so you get the correct amount. This is especially important along the top and bottom edges which have the chevron-shaped pattern and rely on the increases and decreases being made in the right places.

You might find the Stitch and Row Reference diagrams on page 5 of the December mai- out helpful as these show you the number of stitches and rows in each square.

These written notes about how to pick up the stitches and space them evenly may also be useful:

  • along a side/selvedge edge: usually the basic rule to follow here is to pick up 3 out of 4 stitches, however, this will not work with every square in this blanket as the row count is not always the same. So the best way to do this is to plan out the pick up along the edge of each square separately. Place markers at equal points of measurement along the edge of the square and then divide the total number of stitches you need to pick up by the number of sections you have marked out. For example, Square 45 has 50 stitches to pick up across 69 rows, so if you separate the edge into five sections of equal measurement you could pick up  14 stitches in the first two sections, 13 stitches in the third section and 14 stitches in each of the last two sections. My suggested technique for how to pick up stitches is as follows: with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the first gap between the bars (in the same place between the stitches that you inserted your needle for Mattress stitch, ie, between the edge stitch and the next stitch in). Loop the yarn around the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this for all the stitches, skipping over some of the gaps when and if necessary to get the total number of stitches you need to pick up correct.
  • along a cast-on edge: usually the basic rule to follow here is to pick up every stitch. So with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the middle of the stitch just below the cast-off edge/above the cast-on edge. Loop the yarn around the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this all the way along the edge, making sure that you pick up the correct number of stitches along the edge of each square. Remember that where the strips have been sewn together, one stitch from each edge of the squares are caught into the seam (apart from the first and last squares which have only one stitch caught in). But note that you are instructed to pick up one stitch on every seam between the squares.

I HAVE BEEN ASKED WHICH IS THE BEST YARN TO USE TO SEW TOGETHER THE STRIPS. My advice is to choose a strong yarn so any of the Baby Cashsoft Merino yarns that you have plenty of will be fine.

If you use mattress stitch then you don’t need to use the same colour yarn for each seam as the stitching will not show. I know from the test knits of the blanket that you will have only very small amounts of some of the colours left over at the end of the project, so avoid using Baby Silver, Sea Green, Vintage Pink, Mint and Nutkin as these are tight on usage.

WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED BOTH SIDE EDGINGS YOU CAN SEW STRIP 4 INTO THE BLANKET TO CREATE ONE BLOCK. This is a guide to how to ease the squares together using Mattress stitch. It is important to note that these are my suggestions as to how to sew together the squares, but please feel free to use your own method and sequence if preferred.

Because the design is offset by the 2-square panels, I have given instructions as to where parts of the design need to be matched up. Therefore, markers will need to be added to the work on specific rows and then matched to the square next to it as instructed, with rows eased in as advised. When I give a reference to a row number, refer to the pattern instructions and charts to locate which row that is on your knitted square.

These instructions are based on taking the needle under 2 ‘bars’ at a time as demonstrated in the tech vid for vertical mattress stitch. To ease in a row, you will need to take your needle under one less bar on the side you are easing the rows into.

SEW STRIP 3 TO STRIP 4

Option One: sew Square 15 (69 rows) to Square 22 (67 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 15 into Square 22.

Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Chart Row 26.

Along the edge of Square 22 place a marker on Row 33, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Match the marker on Chart Row 28/Square 15 to the marker on Row 33/Square 22.

Beginning at Row 29/Square 15 and Row 34/Square 22, match the marker on Chart Row 26/Square 15 to the marker on Row 67/Square 22 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option Two: sew Square 15 (69 rows) to Square 22 (70 rows): you need to ease 1 row of Square 22 into Square 15.

Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Chart Row 26.

Along the edge of Square 22 place a marker on Row 33, there are already markers placed on Row 70.

Match the marker on Chart Row 28/Square 15 to the marker on Row 33/Square 22.

Beginning at Row 29/Square 15 and Row 34/Square 22, match the marker on Chart Row 26/Square 15 to the marker on Row 70/Square 22 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option One: sew Square 16 (76 rows) to Square 23 (66 rows): you need to ease 10 rows of Square 16 into Square 23.

Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker on Row 109.

Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker on Row 106.

Match the marker on Row 109/Square 16 to the marker on Row 106/Square 23.

Beginning at Row 110/Square 16 and Row 107/Square 23, match the top of Square 16 to the top of Square 23.

Option Two: sew Square 16 (76 rows) to Square 23 (70 rows): you need to ease 6 rows of Square 16 into Square 23.

Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker on Row 109.

Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker on Row 113.

Match the marker on Row 109/Square 16 to the marker on Row 113/Square 23.

Beginning at Row 110/Square 16 and Row 114/Square 23, match the top of Square 16 to the top of Square 23.

Sew Square 17 (71 rows) to Square 24 (63 rows): you need to ease 8 rows of Square 17 into Square 24.

Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker on Chart Row 34.

Along the edge of Square 24 place a marker on Chart Row 32.

Match the marker on Chart Row 34/Square 17 to the marker on Chart Row 32/Square 24.

Beginning at Chart Row 35 of Square 17 and Chart Row 33 of Square 24, match the top of Square 17 to the top of Square 24.

Sew Square 18 (61 rows) to Square 25 (65 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 25 into Square 18.

Along the edge of Square 18 place a marker on Chart Row 29.

Along the edge of Square 25 place a marker on Row 33.

Match the marker on Chart Row 29/Square 18 to the marker on Row 33/Square 25.

Beginning at Chart Row 30/Square 18 and Row 34/Square 25, match the top of Square 18 to the top of Square 25.

Remember that Squares 19-21 are added into the blanket upside down.

Sew Square 19 (71 rows) to Square 26 (63 rows): you need to ease 8 rows of Square 19 into Square 26.

Along the edge of Square 19 place a marker on Chart Row 34.

Along the edge of Square 26 place a marker on Chart Row 32.

Match the marker on Chart Row 34/Square 19 to the marker on Chart Row 32/Square 26.

Beginning at Chart Row 35 of Square 19 and Chart Row 33 of Square 26, match the top of Square 19 to the top of Square 26.

Option One: sew Square 20 (74 rows) to Square 27 (67 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 20 into Square 27.

Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker on Row 105, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Match the marker on Row 105/Square 20 to the marker on Row 28/Square 27.

Beginning at Row 104/Square 20 and Row 29/Square 27, match the marker on Row 67/Square 20 to the marker on Row 67/Square 27 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option Two: sew Square 20 (74 rows) to Square 27 (70 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 20 into Square 27.

Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker on Row 105, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Row 70.

Match the marker on Row 105/Square 20 to the marker on Row 28/Square 27.

Beginning at Row 104/Square 20 and Row 29/Square 27, match the marker on Row 67/Square 20 to the marker on Row 70/Square 27 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option One: sew Square 21 (67 rows) to Square 28 (66 rows): you need to ease 1 row of Square 21 into Square 28.

Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on Row 28.

Along the edge of Square 28 place a marker on Row 102.

Match the marker on Row 28/Square 21 to the marker on Row 102/Square 28.

Beginning at Row 27/Square 21 and Row 103/Square 28, match the top of Square 21 to the top of Square 28.

Option Two: sew Square 21 (67 rows) to Square 28 (70 rows): you need to ease 3 rows of Square 21 into Square 28.

Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on Row 28.

Along the edge of Square 28 place a marker on Row 109.

Match the marker on Row 28/Square 21 to the marker on Row 109/Square 28.

Beginning at Row 27/Square 21 and Row 110/Square 28, match the top of Square 21 to the top of Square 28.

SEW STRIP 4 TO STRIP 5

Option One: sew Square 22 (67 rows) to Square 29 (67 rows).

Along the edge of Square 22 place a marker on Row 33, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Match the marker on Row 33/Square 22 to the marker on Row 28/Square 29.

Beginning at Row 34/Square 22 and Row 29/Square 29, match the marker on Row 67/Square 22 to the marker on Row 67/Square 29 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option Two: sew Square 22 (70 rows) to Square 29 (67 rows):  you need to ease 3 rows of Square 22 into Square 29.

Along the edge of Square 22 place a marker on Row 33, there are already markers placed on Row 70.

Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Match the marker on Row 33/Square 22 to the marker on Row 28/Square 29.

Beginning at Row 34/Square 22 and Row 29/Square 29, match the marker on Row 70/Square 22 to the marker on Row 67/Square 29 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option One: sew Square 23 (66 rows) Square 30 (74 rows): you need to ease 8 rows of Square 30 into Square 23.

Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker on Row 106.

Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker on Row 105.

Match the marker on Row 106/Square 23 to the marker on Row 105/Square 30.

Beginning at Row 107/Square 23 and Row 106/Square 30, match the top of Square 23 to the top of Square 30.

Option Two: sew Square 23 (70 rows) Square 30 (74 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 30 into Square 23.

Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker on Row 113.

Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker on Row 105.

Match the marker on Row 113/Square 23 to the marker on Row 105/Square 30.

Beginning at Row 114/Square 23 and Row 106/Square 30, match the top of Square 23 to the top of Square 30.

Sew Square 24 (63 rows) to Square 31 (71 rows): you need to ease 8 rows of Square 31 into Square 24.

Along the edge of Square 24 place a marker on Chart Row 32.

Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker on Chart Row 34.

Match the marker on Chart Row 32/Square 24 to the marker on Chart Row 34/Square 31.

Beginning at Chart Row 33 of Square 24 and Chart Row 35 of Square 31 and, match the top of Square 24 to the top of Square 31.

Sew Square 25 (65 rows) to Square 32 (61 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 25 into Square 32.

Along the edge of Square 25 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 32 place a marker on Chart Row 29.

Match the marker on Row 33/Square 25 to the marker on Chart Row 29/Square 32.

Beginning at Row 34/Square 25 and Chart Row 30/Square 32, match the top of Square 25 to the top of Square 32.

Remember that Squares 33-35 are added into the blanket upside down.

Sew Square 26 (63 rows) to Square 33 (71 rows): you need to ease 8 rows of Square 33 into Square 26.

Along the edge of Square 26 place a marker on Chart Row 32.

Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker on Chart Row 34.

Match the marker on Chart Row 32/Square 26 to the marker on Chart Row 34/Square 33.

Beginning at Chart Row 33 of Square 26 and Chart Row 35 of Square 33, match the top of Square 26 to the top of Square 33.

Option One: sew Square 27 (67 rows) to Square 34 (76 rows) to you need to ease 9 rows of Square 34 into Square 27.

Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Row 67.

Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker on Row 109, there are already markers placed on Chart Row 26.

Match the marker on Row 28/Square 27 to the marker on Row 109/Square 34.

Beginning at Row 29/Square 27 and Row 108/Square 34, match the marker on Row 67/Square 27 to the marker on Chart Row 26/Square 34 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option Two: sew Square 27 (70 rows) to Square 34 (76 rows) to you need to ease 6 rows of Square 34 into Square 27.

Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker on Row 28, there are already markers placed on Row 70.

Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker on Row 109, there are already markers placed on Chart Row 26.

Match the marker on Row 28/Square 27 to the marker on Row 109/Square 34.

Beginning at Row 29/Square 27 and Row 108/Square 34, match the marker on Row 70/Square 27 to the marker on Chart Row 26/Square 34 (this is the middle of both of these panels).

Option One: sew Square 28 (66 rows) to Square 35 (69 rows) to you need to ease 3 rows of Square 35 into Square 28.

Along the edge of Square 28 place a marker on Row 102.

Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker on Row 28.

Match the marker on Row 102/Square 28 to the marker on Row 28/Square 35.

Beginning at Row 103/Square 28 and Row 27/Square 35, match the top of Square 28 to the top of Square 35.

Option Two: sew Square 28 (70 rows) to Square 35 (69 rows) to you need to ease 1 row of Square 28 into Square 35.

Along the edge of Square 28 place a marker on Row 109.

Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker on Row 28.

Match the marker on Row 109/Square 28 to the marker on Row 28/Square 35.

Beginning at Row 110/Square 28 and Row 27/Square 35, match the top of Square 28 to the top of Square 35.

And that’s it, all your strips are sewn together – well done!

IF YOU WANT TO LINE YOUR BLANKET THEN THIS ADVICE FROM JANE MCKEAG MIGHT COME IN USEFUL. And although I have never done this before myself, I think it would finish off the blanket beautifully – plus it would save having to sew in all those loose ends of yarn!

Each year I go back to Jane’s brilliant advice on how to line a blanket, (thank you Jane!), because her instructions are simple and straight forward and easy to follow. So, I am going to repeat the information she gave me some years ago in this blog to assist you if you decide to go down this route.

This is Jane’s advice:

I’ve had several inquiries as to how to do the backing. So here’s some instructions on how I lined my 2016 Mystery Blanket, based on my quilting experience. It is the same process as preparing the multiple layers for quilting.  

 

I used a good quilting flannel (by Moda Fabrics), which is 44 inches wide. I bought a 1 1/4 yard (45 inches), then machine washed and dried it. I turned an edge all around which I machine sewed. I then pinned it all around to the inner border edges, and hand sewed it in place using a blanket stitch (not necessary but somewhat decorative). I laid the whole thing flat, and used large safety pins at each intersection, pinning through both layers. I used two strands of yarn from the blanket and came up from the back and down to the back at each intersection (they don’t show on the front). Then each time I turned it over and double tied the strands with square knots and clipped them close. For the tying I worked from the outside in to make sure it would stay flat. It takes quite a bit of time to finish this way, but the blanket took quite a bit of time to knit! It’s totally worth the effort, in my opinion.”

THERE’S JUST TIME BEFORE I GO TO TELL YOU ABOUT A NEW KNITTING KIT FROM BEADYKNITS, WHICH I THINK YOU’RE GOING TO LOVE! It’s the final part of Jenny’s 'The Four Seasons', cushion collection, which reflects the different colours and wildlife of the seasons. The cushions are similar in design but not identical as they each feature different motifs, relevant to the season.

There is also a matching pencil case available to purchase, to keep those wandering pens and pencils in one place.

 

Jenny has already released the kits for Spring, Summer and Autumn, so the fourth and final cushion and pencil case to be launched is the 'Winter' design. It is knitted in cool, wintry shades and combines motifs of wildlife with fir trees and snowflakes.

Prices:

Winter Cushion Cover kit: £37.00 + p&p*

Winter Pencil Case kit: £16.00 + p&p*

SPECIAL OFFER! - Winter Bundle (Cushion kit and Pencil Case kit): £49.00 + p&p*

*shipping costs are calculated upon order.

For more information about these kits and others in the BeadyKnits collection, contact Jenny at jenny@BeadyKnits.com.

Or you can visit her shop on Etsy: BeadyKnitsbyJenny.

Please note that these kits are not available to buy from the Debbie Abrahams Ltd website. They must be purchased directly from Jenny at BeadyKnits: jenny@beadyknits.com. Our discount vouchers cannot be used against a purchase from BeadyKnits.

I WILL BE CREATING A MEMBER’S GALLERY BLOG IN JANUARY TO CELEBRATE ALL THE BRILLIANT WORK THAT’S BEEN DONE THIS YEAR! So please send in photos of your completed ‘Deco Dreams’, this year’s Mystery Cushion ‘Pure Nouveau’, and any other Debbie Abrahams projects you have knitted this year, together with a brief description, and I will include them. It’s time to show off all your hard work and be proud of your achievements! Please send all photos and stories to debbie@debbieabrahams.com

AND FINALLY FOR THIS YEAR, THE TENTH AND FINAL 2021 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB PRIZE DRAW!!! Each month a member is picked at random to win a Debbie Abrahams prize. So it is worth reading right the way to the end of the blog to see if you are that lucky member!

PRIZE DRAW TEN (DECEMBER): this month’s winner is member 49, Jane Muggleton from Birstall in Leicestershire, UK. Well done Jane! Please choose a prize from the following selection:

  • Your choice of one of the Rainbow Purse knitting kits: Neon, Hot or Cool (take a look at them in our online shop):
  • Five packs of Debbie Abrahams Beads (size 8/0 or 6/0) from the selection on http://www.debbieabrahamsbeads.co.uk
  • A £20 voucher towards a Debbie Abrahams Mystery Club membership: 2023 Mystery Cushion Club; 2023 Mystery Blanket Club (if you’ve already signed up we will give you a £20 refund)
  • A ‘mystery’ bag of five small gifts.

We will notify Jane to let her know the good news!

AND JUST IN CASE YOU WERE A WINNER THIS YEAR BUT HAVE NOT CLAIMED YOUR PRIZE, here is the list of all the winners from months 1-9. If your name is on the list and you haven’t claimed your prize then email Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com and she will get it sorted for you:

  • March: Dorothy Rodden (member 196)
  • April: Janet Collins (member 183)
  • May: Gladys Wright (member 204)
  • June: Lesley Whurr (member 141)
  • July: Sara Rose (member 317)
  • August: Zita Van der Muelen (member 479)
  • September: Amy Paulson (member 441)
  • October: Ginnie Burnside (member 229)
  • November: Angela Oliver (104)

So here we are, at the end of this year’s epic knitting adventure, and before not too long you will have your very own super sparkly Mystery Blanket to keep you cosy and warm this winter! What an achievement! I want to thank you all for being such wonderful members and for being so enthusiastic and supportive to me and to each other throughout the whole project. I know how much the interaction with other members and the jolly banter within the social groups means to so many of you, so I hope that this has been an uplifting and inspiring experience. I have a lovely project lined up for the Mystery Blanket next year, so if you’ve signed up to it we will begin a whole new knitting journey together in February – I can’t wait! Until then, please have a fabulous Christmas, look after yourselves and let’s hope that 2023 brings plenty of happiness and good cheer! Take care, Debbie x


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