Mystery Blanket Club 2025: post 10, November - the final instalment!

November 8, 2025 Debbie Abrahams

WELCOME TO THE FINAL INSTALMENT OF THE 2025 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB! The end is in sight as we embark on our final month of knitting, with the last four squares and the edging revealed in the November mail-out. If you didn't manage to guess the title of the blanket, then no worries! All is revealed in my final intro for this year which you can watch by clicking on the link below. So grab yourself a cuppa, settle down in your favourite chair, and enjoy!...

All of the tech vids from this year's blogs are listed here. You can access them any time you need to by visiting the Tutorials on our website:

.How to pick up stitches to knit the next square (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (horizontal) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (vertical) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
How to carry yarns up the side of the work (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
How to thread beads onto yarn (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Slip-stitch beading (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Hooked-in beads (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
How to cable (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
Understanding lace stitches (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
How to knit contrast-coloured bobbles (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
How to knit fairisle (Tutorials: Colour Knitting Techniques)
How to knit intarsia (Tutorials: Colour Knitting Techniques)
How to add Swiss-darning to your knitting (Tutorials: Embroidery on Knitting)
Chain stitch (Tutorials: Embroidery on Knitting)
Japanese short-row shaping (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
Square 2, Gentle Waves (Tutorials: Mystery Blanket 2025)
Square 3, Shells (Tutorials: Mystery Blanket 2025)
Square 16, Sandy Squiggles (Tutorials: Mystery Blanket 2025)
Square 17, Fishbones (Tutorials: Mystery Blanket 2025)
Square 37, Barnacles (Tutorials: Mystery Blanket 2025)
Square 39, Salt Water (Tutorials: Mystery Blanket 2025

IF YOU WATCHED MY INTRO THEN YOU WILL KNOW WHAT THE TITLE IS OF THIS YEAR'S MYSTERY BLANKET. However, if you haven't watched it, I am about to tell you...

The title of the 2025 Mystery Blanket is...

THE SEASHORE

Several of you shared your thoughts with me about what you thought the centre square was going to be, but no one guessed that it was going to be a pair of Gulls. So I hope this was a good surprise! I really wanted to include some seabirds in the design as they are such an important part of the coastal landscape. And with my two sisters being avid birdwatchers, between them they had a vast collection of images which they very kindly let me use for reference.

However, if you don't fancy knitting the Gulls you can knit Option Two instead which is a cable with embroidered details. Your choice for this centre square is not dependant on any other choices you have made in this blanket, so go with whichever one you like the most. Both will look super - the decision is up to you!

I'm sending out a huge thank you to everyone who wrote in with their guesses, and a big pat on the back if you got it right before the reveal today. If you want to find out more about the inspiration for the blanket and my design process, then scroll back to the beginning of the blog and check out my intro.

THE NOVEMBER PRINTED PATTERNS HAVE BEEN POSTED, however, because we came back from a family holiday in Rhodes just a few days before the launch date (which we delayed by a week to the 8th November), it was impossible to get them posted any earlier than the 4th November. So if your printed patterns have not been delivered yet, you'll have to sit tight and wait for them to drop onto your doormat. If you are eager to get started before then, the digital file is available to download from your Debbie Abrahams account on our website, along with the nine other files for this Mystery Blanket, should you need them.

THERE ARE NO IMAGES OF THE OPTION TWO VERSION OF THIS BLANKET IN THE NOVEMBER MAIL-OUT. However, I will be featuring it in a special blog towards the end of this year, so keep an eye on your inbox.

FOR THE EARLY BIRDS WHO QUALIFIED FOR THE FREE CUSHION PATTERN, this will be emailed to you as a pdf at the end of the year. The design uses yarns from the 2025 knitting kit, however, if you don't have enough of some of the colours, you will have to purchase more or use alternative colours from what you have left over in your kit.

IF YOU HAVEN'T BOOKED YOUR PLACE ON NEXT YEAR'S MYSTERY BLANKET ADVENTURE, THEN THERE IS STILL TIME TO SIGN YOURSELF UP. With this year's blanket coming to a close, wouldn't it be great to continue your journey with me in 2026 with forty-nine very different and very exciting squares to knit up!?!

Here is a reminder of what I have in store for you for the 2026 Mystery Blanket...

If you get as excited as me about vibrant colours then the 2026 Mystery Blanket could be the perfect project to add to your new year's knitting. Next year's colour palette is super colourful with vibrant pinks, teal, sunshine yellow, emerald green and rich red contrasted against brilliant white, stone and deep indigo blue. There will be lots of interesting stitch patterns, some beautiful cables, stripes, beads, fairisle and intarsia, so it's a knitting journey you won't want to miss out on if colour is your thing!

I am thrilled to be back working with UK spinner James Laxton and his wonderful team in West Yorkshire who are busy creating for me eleven colours in my Light Merino DK yarn. I am combining my own branded yarn with some of my favourites from the Rowan collection including Alpaca Soft DK, Felted Tweed and Pure Alpaca. So you're in for a real treat next year, with all these gorgeous yarns plus lots of sparkly beads being delivered directly to your doorstep!

If you want to pay for your Mystery Blanket Club membership in instalments then opt for our Splitit payment plan. You can choose between 2-4 monthly payments to suit your finances with zero interest to pay.

To find out more and to place your order, visit the online shop on our website, where you will find packages for the UK, Europe and the World:

https://debbieabrahams.com/pages/mystery-blanket-knit-along-club

WE HAVE A SMALL NUMBER OF FESTIVE MYSTERY BOXES LEFT FOR SALE IN OUR ONLINE SHOP, so if you fancy treating yourself or a friend to a box packed with ten gifts including a brand new festive kit designed by me, then pop across to our shop and place your order now before they sell out. We are shipping the boxes from mid-November, so you will get it delivered before Christmas.

IN THIS FINAL INSTALMENT THERE ARE FOUR SQUARES TO KNIT, PLUS THE EDGING:

Square 25, Option One, Gulls - two gull motifs with slip-stitch and hooked-in beads and embroidered details:

Square 25, Option Two, Ripples - cables with optional contrast-coloured bobbles and slip-stitch beads:

Square 26, Sediment 2 - multi-coloured wave pattern using Japanese short-row shaping with embroidered details:

Square 27, Tranquil Shores 2 - cable and lace pattern with hooked-in beads:

Square 28, Option One, Jellyfish - intarsia motif with slip-stitch beads and chain stitch embroidery:

Square 28, Option Two, Crab Stripe - moss stitch and stocking stitch stripes with slip-stitch beads and contrast-coloured textured stitches:

On each pattern page there is a list of Pattern notes and tips that are worth reading before you start to knit each square. This advice will give you pre-warnings of what to look our for in the pattern instructions. Also take note of the description under the title of each square as this tells you what the stitch structure is.

SQUARE 25, GULLS (Option One): the centre square features two gulls which are knitted using the intarsia technique. Embroidery and beads add extra colour and texture to them.

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

How to pick up stitches to knit the next square (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (horizontal) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
How to thread beads onto yarn (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Slip-stitch beading (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Hooked-in beads (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
How to knit intarsia (Tutorials: Colour Knitting Techniques)
How to add Swiss-darning to your knitting (Tutorials: Embroidery on Knitting)
Chain stitch (Tutorials: Embroidery on Knitting)

You can choose to knit this option regardless of all your other choices in the rest of the blanket.

As with all the intarsia squares in this blanket, this square is knitted using 3.25mm needles, which is one size smaller than the recommended main needle size of 3.50mm.

The added embroidery makes this square look quite complicated, but if you take that away then the intarsia motifs themselves are pretty straightforward to knit. You will need to cast on/pick up the stitches in the colours of the first row of the chart otherwise you will get a straight line of solid colour at the beginning of the square. If you decide to pick up the stitches instead of casting on, Row 1 of the chart is completed, so you continue with Row 2.

I wound off two bobbins of White, two of Alabaster, one of Silt (which I used for both of the gull's heads), and one of Mocha (which I used for both of the beaks). You may find that you need a few separate lengths of White to knit the sections that divide for the head (chart rows 18 and 37), or if you are careful with your tension, the White could be carried across the back of Silt.

The horizontal lines of Camel on rows 25 and 45 could be Swiss-darned rather than knitted in (this is what I chose to do). The single stitches on the white breasts of the gulls are also Swiss-darned but are optional. The colours for the Swiss-darning are written onto the chart (Coast and Seashell) and are represented on the chart by a small round circle.

The beads for the eyes of the gulls are knitted in using the slip-stitch technique, so you will need to thread two Grey beads onto Silt - one for each gull. They are difficult to see on the image on page 6, but easier to see on the chart. Each bead is embroidered around using chain stitch and Black yarn.

The Blue, Shell and Pebble beads in the background are hooked-in and some of them are embroidered round using Maritime, Camel and Pacific. If you look at the chart on page 7 you will see that the colours have been written onto the chart beside each circle. It is always best to block and press your knitting before you embroider it so that you have a smooth, flat surface to work on.

SQUARE 25, RIPPLES (Option Two): this is the alternative option for the centre square if you don't want to take on the gulls!

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

How to pick up stitches to knit the next square (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (horizontal) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
How to thread beads onto yarn (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Slip-stitch beading (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Hot to cable (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
How to knit contrast-coloured bobbles (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
Chain stitch (Tutorials: Embroidery on Knitting)

You can choose to knit this option regardless of all your other choices in the rest of the blanket.

This square is knitted using 3.25mm needles, which is one size smaller than the recommended main needle size of 3.50mm.

This square can be worked from either worded instructions or a chart. There is quite a bit going on in this square with twisted stitches (created by working through the back of stitches), slip-stitch beads, bobbles and embroidery added to some of the stitches in the cables. So work from whichever format you find easiest. The worded rows correspond to each row on the chart, ie, Row 1 is the same as Chart Row 1.

Let's take a look at the cables first. There are two cable abbreviations, c9A and c9B, the explanations for which are in the Abbreviations on page 35. Although they both involve nine stitches, they are different because of the twisted stitches in the cables, which are represented on the chart by a forward slash. If you look at the chart on page 10 you can see that stitches are twisted on one side of each cable, but they alternate which side they are twisted on after each cable twist. To keep this consistent the cables have to switch from c9A to c9B and then back again and so on. It may look really complicated in the instructions and on the chart, but if you follow them very carefully you will be fine. Just pay extra attention to which stitches are twisted and which are not. And remember that when you are twisting the stitches, they are twisted on both RS and WS rows by working through the back of the stitches.

Slip-stitch beads are alternated with contrast-coloured bobbles in the centre of each cable. If preferred the bobbles can be knitted using Fav Denims so that they are self-coloured. But if you opt for contrast-coloured bobbles, you need to watch out for the single stitches of Maritime which are worked on the row before each bobble. You can see them on the chart (rows 2, 16, 30, 44 and 58), and they are written into the worded instructions too.

The vertical lines of chain stitch embroidery in Camel and Pacific are added to the square after it has been completed and blocked and pressed. These are optional, but I think they really enhance the square and emphasise the ripples. The chain stitch is not shown on the chart, so you will have to use the image on page 8 for guidance. Look very closely as the embroidered lines change on alternate cables. Working from left to right, on cable one they are the fourth stitch in, on cable two they are the second stitch in, and this alternates across the rest of the cables.

SQUARE 26, SEDIMENT 2: this square is similar to Square 24, but there are subtle changes to the colours with Linen swapped out for Camel.

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

How to pick up stitches to knit the next square (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (horizontal) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Japanese short-row shaping (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
How to carry yarns up the side of the work (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Chain stitch (Tutorials: Embroidery on Knitting)

This is the second square in the blanket that uses Japanese short-row shaping, so if you need a reminder of the technique there is a tech vid for this in Tutorials. The demo shows me working on a square from the 2024 Mystery Blanket, however the techniques that I show (how to work and turn and close up gaps), are the same for this square.

Remember to pull firmly on the yarn when closing up the gaps as this will result in much neater stitches.

If you look closely at the image on page 11 you will see two horizontal lines of chain stitch in Coast. These are the same two rows that were embroidered in Square 24, rows 18 and 46. However, if you prefer the square without embroidery it is optional, and you can choose to leave it off.

I know that some of you are running short of some of the colours in the kit, so if you don't have enough of some of them (Camel?), you could use alternative colours of your own choice that blend in with the other colours in this square.

SQUARE 27, TRANQUIL SHORES 2: this is similar to Tranquil Shores in the June Mail-Out, but the cables twist in the opposite direction.

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

How to pick up stitches to knit the next square (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (horizontal) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Hooked-in beads (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Hot to cable (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)
Understanding lace stitches (Tutorials: Fancy Stitches)

This square uses smaller needles than the recommended main needle size of 3.50mm. You can see it in the boxed info on page 14, it's 3.25mm which are one size smaller than the main needles.

This mix of cables with hooked-in beads and lace stitches creates a pretty, sparkly square which is relatively easy to knit due to it's repetition. You can choose to work from either worded instructions or a chart, both of which correspond to each other, row by row. However, rows 1 and 3 and their subsequent repeats require you to read the instructions in green from the worded instructions - there is a note about this in the Pattern notes and tips on page 14.

All of the cables in this square twist to the right, and are c6b on a WS row. If you need some guidance as to how to knit cables then there is a tech vid in Tutorials which shows the basics of cable knitting. My demo shows cables knitted on RS rows, but the principles of how the stitches are crossed over each other is the same. In the Abbreviations on page 34, an explanation of c6b on a WS row is given.

SQUARE 28, JELLYFISH (Option One): the final square in the blanket is a Jellyfish, which is knitted using the intarsia technique with sparkly slip-stitch beads and optional chain stitch embroidery.

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

How to pick up stitches to knit the next square (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (horizontal) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
How to thread beads onto yarn (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Slip-stitch beading (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
How to knit intarsia (Tutorials: Colour Knitting Techniques)
Chain stitch (Tutorials: Embroidery on Knitting)

To keep the design balanced it is advisable to choose the same option that you chose to knit for Square 22.

This square is knitted using 3.25mm needles, which is one size smaller than the recommended main needle size of 3.50mm.

It is preferable to knit this square as 'pure' intarsia rather than carrying yarns across the back of the work. I am mentioning this as I know some of you will be tempted to take the Maritime for the four separate tentacles (Maritime), and the Linen in between them, across the back of the work. This would result in fewer ends, but there is a high risk of the work becoming puckered if you do this. Mixing fairisle with intarsia is never a great idea, so I would advise that you wind off separate lengths of yarn for each of the tentacles and for each section of the background (Linen) between them. Once you've got past the tentacles the intarsia is much more straightforward, with two balls of Scree and one ball of Silt required, plus two balls of Linen - so it does get a bit easier!

The Shell beads on the top of the jellyfish are threaded on before you join in Silt (instructions are on page 18) and are knitted in using the slip-stitch technique. They are not to be to confused with the chain stitch embroidery symbols in the background which are also represented by a circle. The colours of the embroidery are listed on the right-hand side of the chart. But as with all of the embroidery in this blanket, it is optional, so you can choose to do all of it, some of it, or none of it. The decision is up to you!

SQUARE 28, CRAB STRIPE (Option Two): this is the alternative option to the Jellyfish and the last choice you will have to make in this blanket. Which one will you go for?!?...

Videos to watch for assistance with this square:

How to pick up stitches to knit the next square (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
Mattress stitch (horizontal) (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
How to carry yarns up the side of the work (Tutorials: Knitting Basics)
How to thread beads onto yarn (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Slip-stitch beading (Tutorials: Beading Techniques)
Square 2, Gentle Waves (Tutorials: Mystery Blanket 2025)

To keep the design balanced it is advisable to choose the same option that you chose to knit for Square 22.

This square is the same as Square 22, Option Two, so it should be an easy knit if you choose it again for Square 28. It uses two different needle sizes which are essential to keep the stripes of different textured stitches neat and even - the smaller needles (2.50mm) for moss stitch, and the larger needles (3.25mm) for stocking stitch.

On rows 11 and 28 and their subsequent repeats, you are knitting/purling stitches in alternative colours, which are basic fairisle rows. If you need some guidance for this then the tech vid for Square 2, Gentle Waves will show you how to work these rows and avoid tangling the yarns round each other, so it's worth a watch. On rows 12 and 29 and their subsequent repeats, alternate stitches are slipped. This is also shown in the tech vid for Square 2.

Just one last thing to mention is that stitches are transferred onto the other needle a few times so that you are at the correct end of the work to pick up the colour you need to use. This means that RS rows become even numbered rows, and WS rows become odd numbered rows until the stitches are transferred back again.

Enjoy your final four squares!

WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR NOVEMBER SQUARES IT IS ADVISABLE TO KNIT TWO OF THE EDGINGS BEFORE YOU SEW THE FINAL STRIP (STRIP 4) INTO PLACE. In the Finishing and Edging instructions which begin on page 22 of the November mail-out, you are advised to join strip 4 into the blanket after knitting the left and right edgings. This is because it will be much easier to pick up the stitches when the blanket is in two pieces, rather than picking them up when the blanket is one whole piece.

If you have knitted your squares separately then you will need to join them together first to create seven strips.

The step-by-step instructions for finishing the blanket are given for both options on page 22.

SO LET'S TAKE A LOOK AT THE EDGINGS AND HOW THEY ARE KNITTED. There is one pattern for the edgings with no second option, so everyone is working from the same pattern. Each edging is knitted in a combination of garter stitch and moss stitch, with a slip-stitch contrast-coloured detail in the middle (the same pattern as in Square 2, Gentle Waves). Each edging uses the same colours as well.

The edgings are knitted by picking up the stitches along the edge of each square, and they are mitred at each end which means they join perfectly together at the four corners when you sew them together.

I have written a note on page 22 about the colours of the yarns used in the edgings. Each row uses just over 2g of yarn, so if you are worried that you may run short of any of them, it is advisable to weigh your yarns before you start to ensure you have enough. And if you are going to run out, use other colours from your kit that you do have enough of. Your blanket will still look fabulous, and a slight change to the colours will make it unique!

To knit the edgings you need to use circular needles as there are many stitches to pick up and knit. I used one circular needle to knit each edge and this worked fine with an 80cm length. The sizes you need are stated on page 22, they are 2.50mm and 3.25mm.

Remember that if you have had to change your main needle size for this blanket, then you will need to make the same changes to the needles for the edgings.

For both options, make sure that you cast off the stitches neatly and evenly as these are finished edges. The edgings are cast off with a 3.25mm needle, and you might find it easier to use a straight needle to do this rather than a circular. If you find that your edging is casting off too tightly and pulling in, swap to a size larger needle.

FOR GUIDANCE AS TO HOW TO PICK UP STITCHES FOR THE EDGINGS YOU CAN USE THIS LINK WHICH TAKES YOU TO THE 2021 MYSTERY BLANKET BLOG. There you will find tech vids for picking up stitches along selvedge edges and cast-on and cast-off edges:

https://debbieabrahams.com/blogs/news/mystery-blanket-club-2021-post-10-november-the-final-instalment

On the pattern pages for each of the edgings I have advised how many stitches to pick up along the edge of each square, so it is essential that you read this very carefully and stick to it so that you achieve the correct amount. This will involve easing-in along some of the squares (ie, picking up 45 stitches along a square that has 59 rows). There is some advice below about how to do this. When I picked up the stitches I didn't always get the number I needed first time round and sometimes had to go back and forth several times to get it right. So don't worry if this happens to you - it is quite normal and should be expected.

Another thing I did when I picked up the stitches was to put a stitch marker on the needle at the end of each square (you would need six markers). This made it easier to count the stitches along each square, and it also made it easier to check at the beginning and end of each right-side row that I had done the necessary increases for the mitred edges.

The Stitch and Row Reference diagrams on page 5 of the November mail-out show the number of stitches and rows in each square. So this is really helpful to refer to while you are picking up the stitches.

These notes about how to pick up stitches and space them evenly may also be helpful:

along a side/selvedge edge: the basic rule is to pick up three out of four stitches, however, this will not work with every square in the blanket as the row count is not always the same. So the best way to do this is to plan out the pick up along the edge of each square separately. Place markers at equal points of measurement along the edge of a square and then divide the total number of stitches you need to pick up by the number of sections you have marked out. For example, Square 43 Mudflats has 43 stitches to pick up across 64 rows, so if you divide the edge into two sections of equal measurement, pick up 21 stitches in each section and one stitch in the centre to achieve 43 stitches in total. My suggested technique of how to pick up stitches is as follows: with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the first gap between the bars (in the same place between the stitches that you insert the needle for Mattress stitch, ie, between the edge stitch and the second stitch in). Loop the yarn round the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this for all of the stitches, skipping over some of the gaps if fewer stitches are required, or picking up extra stitches in between if more are required to get the total number of stitches you need.
along a cast-on/cast-off edge: the basic rule to follow here is to pick up every stitch. So with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the middle of the stitch just below the cast-off edge/above the cast-on edge. Loop the yarn round the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this all the way along the edge, making sure that you pick up the correct number of stitches for each square. If the number of stitches is more or less than the number in the square, then skip over stitches if there are fewer to pick up, or pick up between stitches if you need more. As with the side/selvedge pick-ups, if you need to ease-in just make sure that they are spaced evenly along each square. Also remember that where the strips have been sewn together, one stitch from each edge of the squares has been taken into the seams. Note that you are instructed to pick up one stitch on the seams between each square on all four edgings.

WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED BOTH SIDE EDGINGS YOU CAN SEW STRIP 4 INTO PLACE. Let's begin with a quick reminder about how to sew together different stitch structures.

These instructions are based on taking the needle under two 'bars' at a time as demonstrated in the tech vid for vertical Mattress stitch. To ease in a row, you will need to take your needle under one less bar on the side you are easing the extra row into.

Garter stitch rows have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so for every row of garter stitch (which is two knit rows), ease these two rows into one stocking stitch row.
Slip-stitch beads (and slip-stitch patterns) have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in rows it is best to do by taking the needle under more of the beaded rows than the stocking stitch rows.
Fairisle usually has a looser row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this by taking the needle under more of the stocking stitch rows than the fairisle rows.
For a square that has an all-over pattern such as Square 15 Shallow Pools, easings need to spread out evenly across the total number of rows (and not eased in all at one end of the square).

When there are two options for a square, I have given separate instructions for each option, so make sure that you check which instruction you need to follow for your choice of squares. If you have mixed your options you might have to work out some of the easings yourself, but the Piecing Diagrams on page 4 and the Charts for Stitch and Row Reference on page 5 will help you with this.

These are my guidelines but they do not have to be followed if you prefer your own method and calculations.

SEW STRIP 3 (squares 15-21) TO STRIP 4 (squares 22-28)

Sew Square 15 (59 rows) to Square 22 (Option One) (60 rows): you need to ease 1 row of Square 22 into Square 15.

Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 22 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.

Ease in 1 row, making sure that the marker on Square 15 is matched to the marker on Square 22 (Option One).

Sew Square 15 (59 rows) to Square 22 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 22 into Square 15.

Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 22 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.

Ease in 15 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 15 is matched to the marker on Square 22 (Option Two).

Sew Square 16 (75 rows) to Square 23 (61 rows): you need to ease 14 rows of Square 16 into Square 23.

Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker on Row 38.

Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker on Row 31.

Ease in 14 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 16 is matched to the marker on Square 23.

Sew Square 17 (53 rows) to Square 24 (62 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 24 into Square 17.

Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker on Row 27.

Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.

Ease in 7 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 17 is matched to the marker on Square 24.

Sew Square 18 (71 rows) to Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 18 into Square 25 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 18 place a marker on Row 36.

Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.

Ease in 12 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25 (Option One).

Sew Square 18 (71 rows) to Square 25 (Option Two) (62 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 18 into Square 25 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 18 place a marker on Row 36.

Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.

Ease in 9 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25 (Option Two).

Sew Square 19 (59 rows) to Square 26 (62 rows): you need to ease 3 rows of Square 26 into Square 19.

Along the edge of Square 19 place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 26 place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.

Ease in 3 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 19 is matched to the marker on Square 26.

Sew Square 20 (75 rows) to Square 27 (61 rows): you need to ease 14 rows of Square 20 into Square 27.

Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker on Row 38.

Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker on Row 31.

Ease in 14 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 20 is matched to the marker on Square 27.

Sew Square 21 (85 rows) to Square 28 (Option One) (60 rows): you need to ease 25 rows of Square 21 into Square 28 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on 43.

Along the edge of Square 28 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.

Ease in 25 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 21 is matched to the marker on Square 28 (Option One).

Sew Square 21 (85 rows) to Square 28 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 21 into Square 28 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on 43.

Along the edge of Square 28 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Ease in 11 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 21 is matched to the marker on Square 28 (Option Two).

SEW STRIP 4 (squares 22-28) TO STRIP 5 (squares 29-35)

Sew Square 22 (Option One) (60 rows) to Square 29 (85 rows): you need to ease 25 rows of Square 29 into Square 22 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 22 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.

Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 43.

Ease in 25 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 22 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 29.

Sew Square 22 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 29 (85 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 29 into Square 22 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 22 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 43.

Ease in 25 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 22 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 29.

Sew Square 23 (61 rows) to Square 30 (75 rows): you need to ease 14 rows of Square 30 into Square 23.

Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker on Row 31.

Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker on Row 38.

Ease in 14 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 23 is matched to the marker on Square 30.

Sew Square 24 (62 rows) to Square 31 (59 rows): you need to ease 3 rows of Square 24 into Square 31.

Along the edge of Square 24 place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.

Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker on Row 30.

Ease in 3 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 24 is matched to the marker on Square 31.

Sew Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 32 (71 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 32 into Square 25 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 32 place a marker on Row 36.

Ease in 12 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 32.

Sew Square 25 (Option Two) (62 rows) to Square 32 (71 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 32 into Square 25 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.

Along the edge of Square 32 place a marker on Row 36.

Ease in 9 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 32.

Sew Square 26 (62 rows) to Square 33 (53 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 26 into Square 33.

Along the edge of Square 26 place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.

Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker on Row 27.

Ease in 9 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 26 is matched to the marker on Square 33.

Sew Square 27 (61 rows) to Square 34 (75 rows): you need to ease 14 rows of Square 34 into Square 27.

Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker on Row 31.

Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker on Row 38.

Ease in 14 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 27 is matched to the marker on Square 34.

Sew Square 28 (Option One) (60 rows) to Square 35 (59 rows): you need to ease 1 row of Square 28 into Square 35.

Along the edge of Square 28 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.

Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker on Row 30.

Ease in 1 row, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 35.

Sew Square 28 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 35 (59 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 28 (Option Two) into Square 35.

Along the edge of Square 28 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker on Row 30.

Ease in 15 rows, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 35.

Once these strips are sewn into place you can pick up the stitches along the top and bottom edges to complete the blanket.

WE ARE MEETING AT YARN LOFT IN NOTTINGHAM FOR ONE LAST TIME BEFORE THE END OF THE YEAR. So if you are able to make it to Doreen's wonderful knitting shop in Carrington on Wednesday 3rd December, it would be great to see you! Bring along your Mystery Blankets and Cushions, completed or still in progress, and we can enjoy a chat, nibble and natter over a mince pie! Yarn Loft is at 118 Hucknall Road, Carrington, Nottingham, tel number 07825 702433, website: www.yarnloft.co.uk. We meet from 4-6pm, and to cover the costs of hosting the meeting there is a small sub to pay of £3.00 which can be paid to Doreen on the day. See you there!

FOLLOW US AND JOIN IN ALL THE FRIENDLY BANTER ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS!

If you are not already a Ravelry member, then it is very easy (and free!) to join. Just follow the instructions on their website: http://www.ravelry.com

The Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters group on Facebook is another fun way to keep in touch with other members. It was set up a few years ago and has grown to over 800 members, so it's well worth joining.

These are our social media platforms:

Instagram: debbieabrahams_knitting

Pinterest: debbieabrahams@debbieabrahamsk

Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters

Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Handknits

Ravelry: Debbie Abrahams Handknits

AND FINALLY IT'S TIME TO ANNOUNCE THE WINNER OF THE TENTH AND FINAL MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB PRIZE DRAW FOR 2026! Each month a member is picked at random to win a Debbie Abrahams prize. So it is worth reading right the way to the end of each blog to see if you are that lucky winner!

PRIZE DRAW TEN (NOVEMBER): this month's winner is member 16, Alison Cossons from Bristol in the UK. Well done Alison! Please choose a prize from the following selection:

Your choice of one of Debbie's knitting kits up to the value of £30
Six packs of Debbie Abrahams Beads (size 8 or size 6)
A £30 voucher towards the 2026 Mystery Blanket membership (we will refund you £30 for the membership you've purchased)
A Mystery Gift Bag of five surprise gifts!

We will notify Alison to let her know the good news!

AND JUST IN CASE YOU WERE A WINNER THIS YEAR BUT HAVE NOT CLAIMED YOUR PRIZE, here is a list of all the winners from February to October. If your name is on the list, then claim your prize by emailing Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com, and she will get it sorted for you:

February: Suzanne Knowles (member 471)
March: Christine Worrall (member 276)
April: Kirstie Anwyl-Hughes (member 1)
May: Carol Millman (member 447)
June: Jasmine Read (member 380)
July: Susan Elghamry (member 64)
August: Robin Octoman (member 451)
September: Elaine Major (member 199)
October: Diane Weiss (member 487)

Thank you to all my wonderful members who joined me on this year's Mystery Blanket adventure. I hope that you enjoyed the journey and are delighted with your own Mystery Blanket! It's been an absolute pleasure to have you on board, and if you decide to join me again next year, we can start out together on a brand new, super exciting knitting adventure in February! Until then, enjoy knitting the final four squares and have a ton of fun completing the project. See you next year, Debbie xx