Mystery Blanket Club 2024: post 10, November - the final instalment!
Debbie AbrahamsWELCOME TO THE FINAL INSTALMENT OF THE 2024 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB! After ten months of mystery knitting, we are finally at the end of the project with the finishing line in sight. There’s just four more squares to knit, plus the edgings, a bit of finishing and tidying up, and then your blanket will be complete!
But before you make a start on your November squares, I invite you to tune into my final vlog for this year in which I reveal the title of the Mystery Blanket – yay! - and I talk about the inspiration for the blanket. Then there are plenty of tips and advice to read after this to help you on your way to completing your Mystery Blanket.
Mystery Blanket Club 2024 - The Big Reveal! | MBC2024
The library of tech vids that have been in my blogs over the past ten months are listed here. The blogs will remain on our website indefinitely so that you can access them and all the tech vids whenever you need to.
This is a reminder of the techniques that were covered in all the previous blogs:
- How to knit star stitch (June blog)
- How to cast on using several colours (April blog)
- Square 22, Lunar (Option One), how to cross over the yarns (April blog)
- Square 1, Capricorn (Option Two) (March blog)
- How to knit intarsia (March blog)
- How to cable (March blog)
- Square 8, Tranquility: Japanese short-row shaping (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
- How to add Swiss darning to your knitting (February blog)
- How to thread beads onto your yarn (February blog
- How to bead, the slip-stitch method (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to knit fairisle (February blog)
- Picking up stitches to begin a new square (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
THE NOVEMBER FILE (MAIL OUT 10) IS NOW IN YOUR DEBBIE ABRAHAMS ACCOUNT, and you should find a message as well from us about it in your inbox with a link to this blog.
THE FINAL SET OF PRINTED PATTERNS HAVE BEEN POSTED TO THE MEMBERS WHO OPTED FOR THEM, with the overseas sent on Tuesday 28th October and the UK on Wednesday 30th October. This means that the overseas may arrive a little after the 1st November. However, you have the digital file in your account that you could take a look at if you want to make a start. And then all things being good with the postal services, your mail-out will arrive very soon.
EARLY BIRDS WHO SIGNED UP BEFORE THE END OF SEPTEMBER, will receive their free cushion-cover pattern in mid-November, so keep an eye on your inbox!
THERE ARE NO PHOTOS OF THE COMPLETED OPTION TWO BLANKET IN THE NOVEMBER MAIL-OUT. However, I will be featuring it in a special 2024 Mystery Blanket blog towards the end of this year. So if you are intrigued as to what the Option Two blanket looks like, make sure you hop back over to our website to take a look. We will send you an email to let you know when it goes live.
BEFORE I TALK ABOUT THE SQUARES YOU ARE KNITTING IN THIS FINAL INSTALMENT, I JUST WANT TO REMIND YOU THAT SIGN-UPS FOR THE 2025 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB ARE OPEN, SO IF YOU HAVEN’T SIGNED UP YET, THERE IS STILL TIME! Now that this year’s blanket is coming to an end, you might be starting to think about your projects for next year. And if you want to continue with exciting monthly pattern instalments and all the fun of a ‘mystery’ KAL, then why not grab yourself a membership and get yourself signed up? From the 1st February a brand new knitting adventure will begin, with new colours and yarns, and a totally different theme. What could be better than sitting back and waiting for that first parcel to arrive, full of gorgeous yarns in fabulous colours, and a brand new set of squares to knit up!?!
Above: 2023 Mystery Blanket, Our Precious Earth.
You’ve got until the 31st December to sign up, however, the Club will close as soon as all of the memberships are sold. So it’s best not to delay and get yourself onboard today so you don’t miss out!
So what’s in store for 2025?
Debbie is thrilled to be collaborating with Rowan Yarns for this project and has selected some of the most popular yarns in their premium collection for this blanket including Felted Tweed, Soft Yak and Summerlite DK. The colour palette is soft and soothing with a focus on shades of powder blue, silver grey, soft sand and white. It’s a gentle mix of colours, knitted up into forty-nine squares of fascinating stitch structures, cables, stripes, fairisle and intarsia, and there are plenty of beads in it too, giving the blanket an extra sparkle!
The full knitting kit with everything in it that you need to knit the whole blanket is delivered directly to your doorstep, making it a convenient and easy way to participate in the project. And with patterns for five to six squares emailed to you each month over a ten-month period, the Mystery Blanket provides you with enough knitting for a whole year!
There will be a choice of two options for the trickier squares (fairisle and intarsia), enabling both novice and experienced knitters to participate in this unique knitting experience.
Below: 2021 Mystery Blanket, One Thousand & One Nights.
Monthly tech vids in a dedicated blog give you all the help and support you need as you work your way through the forty-nine squares, enabling knitters of all abilities to take part. It’s a great way to learn new knitting skills!
The finished size of the blanket is approximately 135cm x 135cm.
What does my membership include?
Each member receives ten sets of monthly emailed patterns and two parcels containing over thirty-five balls of premium quality yarn and embellishments to knit and assemble a blanket. The kit will be posted in two halves with the first one delivered in February, followed by the second one in May.
Everyone that signs up to the club will receive a unique code for a 10% discount voucher that can be used at anytime for one transaction in our online shop*. There is no expiry date, so you can spend it whenever you want. *The discount excludes Mystery products and gift cards, and cannot be used in conjunction with any other discounts that are running in our shop/.
You can add to your membership ten sets of printed patterns for an additional cost.
Above: 2022 Mystery Blanket, Deco Dreams.
Download pattern option
We are offering the option of ten sets of patterns as monthly downloads (no knitting kit) enabling you to use yarns and beads from your own stash to knit the blanket. The list of yarns and beads for the first part of the kit will be released a week before the project begins.
Choose to spread the cost of your payment
If you would prefer to pay in instalments, we have a payment system in place called Splitit which enables you to choose to make your payment between 2-4 months. Simply select this option at checkout when you make your first payment and then your remaining payments will be taken automatically from your account.
Below: 2024 Mystery Blanket, It's Written In The Stars.
What happens after I’ve purchased my Mystery Blanket membership?
When you have completed your payment, you will be sent an automated email to confirm that your transaction has been processed successfully (please note that it says that your order is being processed to send to you, however, the first parcel will not be posted until mid-end January).
Before making your payment, please read the Terms and Conditions for the Mystery Blanket Club. You will find a link to these at the foot of the Home page. Please note that if you make your payment you are agreeing to these Terms and Conditions.
When your payment has been made you will sent a confirmation email confirming your package and your membership number. If you do not receive this within twenty-eight days, please contact us and we will re-send it to you: sue@debbieabrahams.com
Need to know a bit more?
You can read more about the Club and how it runs by visiting the FAQs page on our website.
SO, IF YOU’VE WATCHED MY INTRO, YOU WILL KNOW WHAT THE TITLE IS OF THE 2024 MYSTERY BLANKET. But if you haven’t watched it, and haven’t managed to guess it either, I am about to tell you…
The title of the 2024 Mystery Blanket is…..
I T ‘ S / W R I T T E N / I N / T H E / S T A R S
Some of you wrote in to share your ideas about the centre square, and your guesses were rather good! I played about with a lot of different ideas before I decided on the final squares for Option One and Option Two. But hopefully you like the choices I have given you – an intarsia crescent moon with a star and lots of twinkly beads, or an all-over beaded bonanza with nine sparkling stars, both on a bright pink background to give the centre of the blanket a real buzz. I hope you enjoying knitting up whichever one you choose!
The guessing game of the title is always good fun, so thanks to everyone that played along and sent in their guesses. Many of you got it right – and very early on too. So well done to all of you! If you want to find out more about the blanket and hear about how my inspiration was turned into It’s Written In The Stars, then scroll back to my intro vid and all will be revealed!
THERE ARE FOUR SQUARES TO KNIT IN THIS FINAL MONTH:
Square 25, Wish Upon A Star (Option One) – intarsia moon motif with a beaded star and slip-stitch and hooked-in beads:
Square 25, Wish upon A Star (Option Two) – beaded all-over star pattern with slip-stitch and hooked-in beads:
Square 26, Tranquillity 6 - multi-coloured wave pattern using Japanese short-row shaping (same for both options):
Square 27, Starry Starry Night 3 – textured stripe pattern with hooked-in beads (same for both options):
Square 28, Lunar 4 (Option One) – intarsia cable pattern:
Square 28, Lunar 4 (Option Two) – striped slip-stitch pattern:
On each pattern page there is a list of Pattern notes and tips that are worth reading before you start to knit each square. These bits of advice will help you and give pre-warnings as to what to look out for in the pattern instructions. Also take note of the description under the title of each square as this tells you what the stitch structure is.
You can use the tech vids from previous blogs to help you knit your squares. But here are a few extra tips to assist you:
SQUARE 25, WISH UPON A STAR (Option One): so this is your first option, the trickier one to knit because of the intarsia motif. But it’s not super difficult, so you might want to give this one a go…
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- Picking up stitches to begin a new square (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to knit intarsia (March blog)
- How to thread beads onto your yarn (February blog
- How to bead, the slip-stitch method (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
First of all you need to thread some beads onto your yarn, the instructions for which are on page 6 of your mail-out. It is difficult to see the colours of the beads for the star in the image of the square, so make sure that you thread your beads on very carefully so that they are in the correct sequence.
The Clear and Gold beads in the background are hooked-in, and if you look at the chart on page 7 you can see that these beads are identified on the chart with a black inner circle.
For this square I used yarn bobbins, which I much prefer to long lengths of yarn or small wound off balls. So I used one bobbin of Sublime plus the ball (I cast on with the ball) for the background. And one bobbin of Sapphire for the moon. There aren’t many separate balls of yarn needed for this square, so consequently it is actually quite a simple intarsia pattern to knit, and well worth giving it a go if you fancy it. Just watch out on some of the rows, for example chart rows 8 and 12 where the stitches move in or out across a few stitches as you will need to think about moving yarns across at the back of the work either on the row before or on the row they are on so that they are in a better position to pick up and use. They can be moved across using the fairisle technique of weaving.
I have noticed that in the key for the chart on page 7, the little coloured box for Sublime is coloured in pink, but on the chart the squares on the chart are white. Hopefully it is obvious by looking at the image on page 6 that the colour to use is Sublime, but I thought it was worth pointing out to avoid any confusion.
SQUARE 25, WISH UPON A STAR (Option Two): this is the easier option to knit, but it is very bead intensive, so the choice is up to you…beads or beads and intarsia?...
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- Picking up stitches to begin a new square (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to thread beads onto your yarn (February blog
- How to bead, the slip-stitch method (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
Brace yourself for a beading extravanganza, with beads threaded onto the yarn for the slip-stitch technique to knit the nine stars, and beads hooked-in for the starbursts in between the stars. The bead threading sequence is on page 9 of your mail-out, and it is very long. So it might be worth asking someone to read out the sequence to you so that you can concentrate on the threading.
If preferred, you can thread on the beads in batches instead of threading them all on at once. It is possible to separate them down into three rows of stars as follows: bottom row, middle row and top row of stars. You would need to thread on the beads as follows:
bottom row of stars: thread on the first nine lines of bead threading (between * and **);
middle row of stars: thread on the next nine lines of bead threading (beginning after **);
top row of stars: repeat the bead threading from * to **.
If you decide to do this you will need to break the yarn at the end of each section, thread on the next lot of beads, rejoin the yarn and continue.
The beads for the starbursts which are hooked-in, are identified on page 9 with a black inner circle. You will see these symbols in the key for the chart which is on page 8.
As with Option One, I have noticed that in the key for the chart on page 9, the little coloured box for Sublime is coloured in pink, but on the chart the squares are white. So just to clarify, the colour to use for this square is Sublime.
SQUARE 26, TRANQUILLITY 6: this is similar to Square 24, but there is a change to the colours with blues and greens swapped for purples.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- Square 8, Tranquility: Japanese short-row shaping (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
This is the sixth and final square in this series, so I am sure that you are now very familiar with the technique of Japanese short-row shaping. So the only thing that I want to draw your attention to in this square are the pale knitted single rows of Hyacinth, which might be a little tricky to see in the image on page 10. There are two of them and they are knitted after the Gold Pearl lozenges. There are also three single rows of Uranus edging the Sapphire lozenges – but these are much easier to see.
The only other thing to point out in this square is the transferring of stitches after Rows 11, 26 and 39 so that you are at the correct end of the row for the next instruction. In view of this it might be worth using a circular needle or double-points to knit this square.
SQUARE 39, STARRY STARRY NIGHT 3: this is a variation of the two previous Starry Starry Night squares you have already knitted, and uses the two purple yarns in your kit – Jupiter and Spellbound – with Gold hooked-in beads.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- Picking up stitches to begin a new square (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 1, Capricorn (Option Two) (March blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
If you need a reminder of the stitch pattern in this square, then the tech vid from the March blog for Capricorn (Option Two) will guide you through it. I remember from before that some of the members found themselves in a pickle on the wrong-side rows where stitches are passed over and off the needle. So make sure that you read this instruction very carefully and follow what it says. And if in doubt, watch the vid.
Row 58, which is the last row before casting off, also caused a problem for some of you with the stitch count after this row totalling 40 stitches instead of 41 stitches. This is because there is no passing over of the stitch after the last hooked-in bead, which is a change to what you have been instructed to do throughout the rest of this row. So just take extra special care when you knit it and follow the instructions very carefully. After the last hooked in bead you simply purl the last two stitches. And if you do this, you will have the correct number.
I have noticed that the title of this square on page 13 of the mail-out says ‘Starry Starry Night’ without the 3, but it is version 3 – just in case you’re wondering!
SQUARE 28, LUNAR 4 (Option One): this is a re-colour of Squares 22, 4 and 46 and replaces the blues and purples with the pink colours in your kit.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- Picking up stitches to begin a new square (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to cast on using several colours (April blog)
- Square 22, Lunar (Option One), how to cross over the yarns (April blog)
- How to cable (March blog)
To keep the design balanced I would recommend that you choose the same option that you knitted for Square 22.
There are both worded instructions and a chart for this square, so choose whichever you prefer to work from. It’s an intarsia cable but if you cast your mind back to the previous Lunar squares you’ve knitted, the yarns are crossed over on the RS which creates the vertical dotted lines between the colour changes. All of the cables twist to the right in this version of the square – as they did in Square 46 – with the stitches held to the back (c8b). In case you need a reminder, the abbreviation for ‘c8b’ can be found on page 31 of the November mail-out.
I found it much easier to knit this square using yarn bobbins, rather than separate balls of yarn. I filled up 5 bobbins -three with Pink Bliss and two with Hyacinth – and was able to complete the square without running out (although this depends on which yarn bobbins you use).
Remember to block and press this square with the right side facing, as mentioned in the Pattern note and tip on page 15.
SQUARE 28 LUNAR 4 (Option Two): this is the alternative choice for Lunar if you don’t fancy intarsia cables. It’s the same vertical slip-stitch pattern as Squares 4, 22 and 46, but the purple and blue colours are swapped out for pinks.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- Picking up stitches to begin a new square (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
This all-over slip-stitch pattern is worked in a rotating three colour stripe, so once you’ve joined in all three yarns, they are not cut off until the square is completed. Simply carry them up the side of the work at the end of each row, making sure that they are neat and not pulled too tightly.
It's on all the RS rows that the stitches are slipped, and on all the WS rows the stitches are knitted or purled – there are no slipped stitches on WS rows.
I have written the pattern over 72 rows, but on page 19 I have also given a measurement of 18cm to work to. If you knitted this option for Squares 4, 22 and 46, then make sure that you knit the same number of rows so that they are identical in length.
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR NOVEMBER SQUARES IT IS ADVISABLE TO KNIT TWO OF THE EDGINGS BEFORE YOU SEW THE FINAL STRIP INTO PLACE. In the Finishing and Edging instructions which begin on page 20 of your November mail out, you are advised to join strip 4 into the blanket after knitting the right-hand and left-hand edgings. This is because it will be much easier to pick up the stitches when the blanket is in two pieces, rather than picking them up when the blanket is one whole piece.
If you have knitted your squares separately then you will need to join these together first to create the final strip which is number 4 (this is Squares 22-28). If you haven’t joined together the squares for all the other strips, then you will need to do this now so that they are all completed.
The step-by step process for finishing the blanket is given for both options on page 20 of the November mail-out.
SO BEFORE WE TALK ABOUT JOINING STRIP 4 INTO THE BLANKET, LET’S FOCUS ON THE EDGINGS. There is one pattern for the edgings with no second option, so everyone is knitting the same pattern. They are knitted in moss stitch (seed stitch) with a slip-stitch contrast coloured detail in the middle. The left and right edgings are purple, the bottom uses green/blues and the top uses pinks.
Each of the edgings are knitted by picking up stitches along the edge of each square, and they are mitred at each end which results in a perfect join at each corner when you sew them together to complete the blanket.
I have written some notes on page 20 about the colours of the yarns used in the edgings. Each row in the edging uses approximately 2g of yarn, so if you are worried that you may run short of any of the colours it is advisable to weigh your yarn (preferably on scientific scales), to make sure you have enough. And if you are going to run short, use other colours that you do have enough of. Your blanket will still look fabulous and a slight change to your edging will make it look even more unique!
In last month’s blog I told you what you would need to knit the edgings, but here is a reminder:
- a circular 2.75mm (US 2) (UK 12) 80cm or 100cm length needle
- one 3.50mm (US 4) (UK n/a) needle for casting off the stitches.
In previous years I have recommended using two circular needles for each edging – one to pick up the stitches and the other to knit them onto (like knitting with two very long needles). However, my test knitters have assured me that this is unnecessary, and that one circular needle will do the job just as well.
Remember that if you have had to change your main needle size for this project, then you will need to make the same changes to the needles for the edgings.
For both options, make sure that you cast off the stitches to complete the edgings neatly and evenly as these are finished edges. The edgings are cast off using a 3.50mm straight needle (or circular) to create a neat edge which is nice and even and not too tight. But you might need to adjust this and use a larger or smaller needle if the 3.50mm is not right for your casting-off tension.
FOR GUIDANCE AS TO HOW TO PICK UP STITCHES FOR THE EDGINGS YOU CAN USE THIS LINK WHICH TAKES YOU TO THE 2021 MYSTERY BLANKET BLOG. There you will find tech vids for picking up stitches along selvedge edges and cast-on and cast-off edges:
On the pattern pages for each of the edgings I have advised how many stitches to pick up along the edge of each square, so it is essential that you read this very carefully and stick to it so you get the correct amount. This will involve easing along some of the squares (ie, picking up 45 stitches along a square that has 59 rows). There is some advice below about how to do this. When I picked up my stitches I didn’t always get the number I needed first time round and sometimes I had to go back and forth several times to get it right. So don’t worry if this happens to you – it is quite normal and should be expected.
The Stitch and Row Reference diagrams on page 5 of the November mail show the number of stitches and rows in each square. So this is a really helpful reference to use while you are picking up the stitches.
These written notes about how to pick up the stitches and space them evenly may also be useful:
- along a side/selvedge edge: usually the basic rule to follow here is to pick up 3 out of 4 stitches, however, this will not work with every square in this blanket as the row count is not always the same. So the best way to do this is to plan out the pick up along the edge of each square separately. Place markers at equal points of measurement along the edge of the square and then divide the total number of stitches you need to pick up by the number of sections you have marked out. For example, Square 46, Lunar (Option One) has 45 stitches to pick up across 62 rows, so if you separate the edge into two sections of equal measurement you could pick up 22 stitches in each of the sections, and one stitch in the centre. My suggested technique for how to pick up stitches is as follows: with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the first gap between the bars (in the same place between the stitches that you inserted your needle for Mattress stitch, ie, between the edge stitch and the next stitch in). Loop the yarn around the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this for all the stitches, skipping over some of the gaps when and if necessary to get the total number of stitches you need to pick up correct.
- along a cast-on/cast-off edge: usually the basic rule to follow here is to pick up every stitch. So with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the middle of the stitch just below the cast-off edge/above the cast-on edge. Loop the yarn around the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this all the way along the edge, making sure that you pick up the correct number of stitches along the edge of each square. If the number of stitches is more or less than you have cast on (or cast off), then skip over stitches if there are too many, or pick up between stitches if you need more. As with the side/selvedge edges, if you do need to ease just make sure that they are spaced out evenly along each square. Also, remember that where the strips have been sewn together, one stitch from each edge of the squares are caught into the seam. But note that you are instructed to pick up one stitch on every seam between the squares.
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED BOTH SIDE EDGINGS YOU CAN SEW STRIP 4 INTO THE BLANKET TO CREATE ONE BLOCK. Let’s begin with a quick reminder about sewing your squares and strips together.
In this blanket all of the squares are facing in the same direction (in some of the previous Mystery Blankets the squares were turned upside down or were positioned on their side). So this makes it much easier to sew together. All you need to watch out for is the number of rows, which as you know does vary from square to square. This means that some easing in will be required.
These instructions are based on taking the needle under 2 ‘bars’ at a time as demonstrated in the tech vid for vertical mattress stitch. To ease in a row, you will need to take your needle under one less bar on the side you are easing the extra row into.
Before we make a start, these are some extra tips on easing in rows:
- Garter stitch rows have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so for every row of Garter stitch (which is two knit rows), ease these two rows into one stocking stitch row.
- Slip-stitch beads (and slip-stitch patterns) have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this across beaded rows, taking the needle under more of the beaded rows than the stocking stitch rows.
- Fairisle usually has a looser row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this across fairisle rows, taking the needle under more of the stocking stitch rows than the fairisle rows.
- For a square that has an all-over pattern, such as Square 25, Wish Upon A Star (Option Two), any easings need to be spread out evenly across the total number of rows (and not eased in all at one end or unevenly).
When there are two options on a square, I have given separate instructions for each option, so make sure that you check which one you need to follow for your choice of squares. If you have mixed your options then you might have to work out some of the easings yourself, but the piecing diagram on page 4 and the Chart for Stitch and Row Reference on page 5 will help you with this.
These are my guidelines and do not have to be followed if you prefer to use your own method and calculations.
SEW STRIP 3 (squares 15-21) TO STRIP 4 (squares 22-28)
Sew Square 15 (Option One) (73 rows) to Square 22 (Option One) (62 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 15 (Option One) into Square 22 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 15 (Option One) place a marker on Row 37.
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.
Ease in 11 rows across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 15 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 22 (Option One).
Sew Square 15 (Option Two) (88 rows) to Square 22 (Option Two) (72 rows): you need to ease 16 rows of Square 15 (Option Two) into Square 22 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 15 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 44 and 45.
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 15 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 22 (Option Two).
Sew Square 16 (84 rows) to Square 23 (60 rows): you need to ease 24 rows of Square 16 into Square 23.
Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker between 42 and 43.
Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Ease in 24 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 16 is matched to the marker on Square 23.
Sew Square 17 (63 rows) to Square 24 (49 rows): you need to ease 14 rows of Square 17 into Square 24.
Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 24 place a marker on Row 25.
Ease in 14 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 17 is matched to the marker on Square 24.
Sew Square 18 (97 rows) to Square 25 (Option One) (61 rows): you need to ease 36 rows of Square 18 into Square 25 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 18 place a marker on Row 49.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 31.
Ease in 36 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25 (Option One).
Sew Square 18 (97 rows) to Square 25 (Option Two) (64 rows): you need to ease 33 rows of Square 18 into Square 25 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 18 place a marker on Row 49.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Ease in 33 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25 (Option Two).
Sew Square 19 (65 rows) to Square 26 (49 rows): you need to ease 16 rows of Square 19 into Square 26.
Along the edge of Square 19 place a marker on Row 33.
Along the edge of Square 26 place a marker on Row 25.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 19 is matched to the marker on Square 26.
Sew Square 20 (84 rows) to Square 27 (60 rows): you need to ease 24 rows of Square 20 into Square 27.
Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker between Rows 42 and 43.
Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Ease in 24 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 20 is matched to the marker on Square 27.
Sew Square 21 (Option One) (73 rows) to Square 28 (Option One) (62 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 21 (Option One) into Square 28 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 21 (Option One) place a marker on Row 37.
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option One) place a marker between 31 and 32.
Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 21 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 28 (Option One).
Sew Square 21 (Option Two) (88 rows) to Square 28 (Option Two) (72 rows): you need to ease 16 rows of Square 21 (Option Two) into Square 28 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 21 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 44 and 45.
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 21 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 28 (Option Two).
SEW STRIP 4 (squares 22-28) TO STRIP 5 (squares 29-35)
Sew Square 22 (Option One) (62 rows) to Square 29 (Option One) (73 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 29 (Option One) into Square 22 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.
Along the edge of Square 29 (Option One) place a marker on Row 37.
Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 22 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 29 (Option One).
Sew Square 22 (Option Two) (72 rows) to Square 29 (Option Two) (88 rows): you need to ease 16 rows of Square 29 (Option Two) into Square 22 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 29 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 44 and 45.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 22 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 29 (Option Two).
Sew Square 23 (60 rows) to Square 30 (84 rows): you need to ease 24 rows of Square 30 into Square 23.
Along the edge of Square 23 place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker between Rows 42 and 43.
Ease in 24 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 23 is matched to the marker on Square 30.
Sew Square 24 (49 rows) to Square 31 (65 rows) you need to ease 16 rows of Square 31 into Square 24.
Along the edge of Square 24 place a marker on Row 25.
Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker on Row 33.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 24 is matched to the marker on Square 31.
Sew Square 25 (Option One) (61 rows) to Square 32 (97 rows) you need to ease 36 rows of Square 32 into Square 25 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 32 place a marker on Row 49.
Ease in 36 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 32.
Sew Square 25 (Option Two) (64 rows) to Square 32 (97 rows) you need to ease 33 rows of Square 32 into Square 25 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Along the edge of Square 32 place a marker on Row 49.
Ease in 33 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 32.
Sew Square 26 (49 rows) to Square 33 (63 rows): you need to ease 14 rows of Square 33 into Square 26.
Along the edge of Square 26 place a marker on Row 25.
Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 14 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 26 is matched to the marker on Square 33.
Sew Square 27 (60 rows) to Square 34 (84 rows): you need to ease 24 rows of Square 34 into Square 27.
Along the edge of Square 27 place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker between Rows 42 and 43.
Ease in 24 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 27 is matched to the marker on Square 34.
Sew Square 28 (Option One) (62 rows) to Square 35 (Option One) (73 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 35 (Option One) into Square 28 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.
Along the edge of Square 35 (Option One) place a marker on Row 37.
Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 28 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 35 (Option One).
Sew Square 28 (Option Two) (72 rows) to Square 35 (Option Two) (88 rows): you need to ease 16 rows of Square 35 (Option Two) into Square 28 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 35 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 44 and 45.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 28 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 35 (Option Two).
IF YOU WANT TO LINE YOUR BLANKET THEN THIS ADVICE FROM JANE MCKEAG MIGHT COME IN USEFUL. And although I have never done this before myself, I think it would finish off the blanket beautifully – plus it would save having to sew in all those loose ends of yarn!
Each year I go back to Jane’s brilliant advice on how to line a blanket, (thank you Jane!), because her instructions are simple and straight forward and easy to follow. So, I am going to repeat the information she gave me some years ago in this blog to assist you if you decide to go down this route.
This is Jane’s advice:
“I’ve had several inquiries as to how to do the backing. So here’s some instructions on how I lined my 2016 Mystery Blanket, based on my quilting experience. It is the same process as preparing the multiple layers for quilting.
I used a good quilting flannel (by Moda Fabrics), which is 44 inches wide. I bought a 1 1/4 yard (45 inches), then machine washed and dried it. I turned an edge all around which I machine sewed. I then pinned it all around to the inner border edges, and hand sewed it in place using a blanket stitch (not necessary but somewhat decorative). I laid the whole thing flat, and used large safety pins at each intersection, pinning through both layers. I used two strands of yarn from the blanket and came up from the back and down to the back at each intersection (they don’t show on the front). Then each time I turned it over and double tied the strands with square knots and clipped them close. For the tying I worked from the outside in to make sure it would stay flat. It takes quite a bit of time to finish this way, but the blanket took quite a bit of time to knit! It’s totally worth the effort, in my opinion.”
IF YOU FEEL THE NEED FOR A FESTIVE TREAT (OR A BOOST TO YOUR BEAD STOCKS!), THEN YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN THIS EXCITING PROMOTION AND NEW KIT LAUNCHES:
- Available now! Festive Mystery Knit Boxes – the perfect idea for a gift or a treat for yourself. Debbie’s Mystery Box includes ten mystery gifts including a brand-new festive knitting kit. With only 120 boxes available, you would be wise to grab one of these as soon as you can before they sell out.
- From Saturday 26th November our festive kits 10% discount promotion begins! You can grab yourself a festive kit at a discounted price for a limited period (offer excludes Festive Mystery Knit Boxes), PLUS we are offering the same discount off all our Debbie Abrahams beads in all colours and both sizes. Offer ends on the 8th November 2024.
- From Saturday 26th November: get yourself prepped and ready for the colder months ahead with our new ‘Rockin’ Around Mitts’ kit and ‘Star of Wonder Bunting’ kits (last year’s Festive Mystery Knit Box kit). Both are available to buy at the same discounted price as the beads and festive kits. Offer ends on the 8th November.
OUR REGULAR MEETINGS AT YARN LOFT IN NOTTINGHAM HAVE BEEN A GREAT WAY FOR MEMBERS TO MEET UP AND KNIT THEIR SQUARES, and our final meeting for the year is on Wednesday 6th November. I will be bringing along to the meeting my completed Mystery Blanket and Mystery Cushion. I can’t wait to see some of you there!
After the November meeting we are taking a break until the new year, then our meetings will resume from February. If you are interested in joining us for a couple of hours in the new year at Doreen’s gorgeous yarn shop, then drop me an email and I will send you a reminder a few days before each of the meetings: debbie@debbieabrahams.com
Yarn Loft is at 118 Hucknall Road, Carrington, Nottingham, tel number 07825 702433, website: www.yarnloft.co.uk. To cover the costs of hosting the meeting there is a small sub to pay (£3.00), which can be paid to Doreen on the day. Doors open from 4-6pm and all ‘mystery’ knitters are welcome!
2024 MEMBER'S GALLERY! I have a huge confession to make about the 2023 Member’s Gallery – which never actually got published on my website. In a moment of madness I deleted in error from my computer the whole folder I had created with the emails and images in it of all your lovely projects. And with my very limited technical skills, unfortunately I was unable to retrieve it. So I apologise profusely for this and ask that if you have any images of your lovely ‘Debbie’ projects that you want to send in – both mystery projects and other Debbie or Debbie-related projects you have completed over the past twelve months, please email them to me at: debbie@debbieabrahams.com. And I promise to keep them safe until I launch the Member’s Gallery for 2024 in January – just before we embark on the next Mystery Blanket adventure at the beginning of February. I can’t wait to see what you’ve created this year!
Below: 2018 Mystery Blanket, Casa Battlo, inspired cushion design by Caroline Evans.
FOR ALL OUR LATEST NEWS, MAKE SURE THAT YOU FOLLOW US ON ALL OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS!
If you are not already a Ravelry member, then it is very easy (and free!) to join. Just follow the instructions on their website: http://www.ravelry.com
The Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters group on Facebook is another fun way to keep in touch with other members. It was set up a couple of years ago and has grown in size to over 800 members, so that’s well worth joining too.
We also have our own Facebook page where you will find regular updates on everything we are doing from knitting kits to workshops and events!
Instagram: debbieabrahams_knitting
Pinterest: debbieabrahams@debbieabrahamsk
Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters
Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Handknits
Ravelry: Debbie Abrahams Handknits
AND FINALLY, IT’S TIME TO ANNOUNCE THE WINNER OF THE TENTH AND FINAL 2024 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB PRIZE DRAW!!! Each month a member is picked at random to win a Debbie Abrahams prize. So it is worth reading right the way to the end of each blog to see if you are that lucky member!
PRIZE DRAW TEN (NOVEMBER): this month’s winner is member 528, Frances Hourican from Glen Mills, Pennsylvania in the USA. Well done Frances! Please choose a prize from the following selection:
- Your choice of one of Debbie’s knitting kits up to the value of £30.00 (take a look at them in our online shop).
- Six packs of Debbie Abrahams Beads (size 8/0 or 6/0) from the selection on http://www.debbieabrahamsbeads.co.uk
- A £30 voucher towards the 2025 Debbie Abrahams Mystery Blanket Club membership.
- A Mystery bag of five gifts!
We will notify Frances to let her know the good news!
AND JUST IN CASE YOU WERE A WINNER THIS YEAR BUT HAVE NOT CLAIMED YOUR PRIZE, here is the list of all the winners from months 1-9. If your name is on the list and you haven’t claimed your prize then email Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com and she will get it sorted for you:
- February: Gillian Hanhart (member 40)
- March: Jane Ungemuth (member 9)
- April: Evelyne Zueblin (member 467)
- May: Anne Sampson (member 75)
- June: Leslie Foote (member 430)
- July: Alison Jones (member 104)
- August: Barbara Frenchman (member 379)
- September: Trish Dunant (member 218)
- October: Caro Hembling (member 271)
So now we are at the end of our ten-month journey, and I hope that wherever it is has taken you and whatever you have learnt from this experience, it has been fun and inspirational. When (and not if!) you finish your blanket, please send me some pics and a few words and with great pleasure I will include them in the Member’s Gallery in the new year. It will be so rewarding for me to see your completed blankets, and if you have gone off-piste and done something a little different, then I’d love to see your creations! Until next year when the next mystery KAL begins in February, I wish you happy knitting this month and a fabulous few months as we countdown to the festive season. I hope to see you next year, I will be here to say hello and update you on all the latest news each month from 1st February when the 2025 Mystery Blanket Club launches - I can hardly wait! Take care everyone, and thanks for being such fabulous members this year, Debbie, x
