Mystery Blanket Club 2023: post 8, September
Debbie AbrahamsHELLO & WELCOME TO THE EIGHTH INSTALMENT OF THE 2023 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB! We have been out and about keeping Seth entertained for the past few weeks, and after a trip to Legoland, a week in Devon and another week in Whitby, I am just about ready for our little lad to go back to school so that I can crack on with all the wonderful new projects I have planned for the next twelve months.
I love this time of year the most as it’s always so exciting to be sourcing new inspiration and working on new designs. At the moment I am firmly focused on the 2024 Mystery Blanket (which you can sign up to now!) and I have the design for the 2024 Mystery Cushion in progress too. So I can promise you that there is a lot to get excited about over the forthcoming weeks and months!
There is no intro vid from me this month as my tech team is taking a much-earned break over the summer, and my days at home in between gallivanting up and down the UK have been few and far between. However, you can still catch up with all my latest news about the club, including tips and advice about how to sew together your completed strips (yes, it’s time to get your sewing needles out!), a great technique from member Maria Didonna about how to splice yarns together, and there’s information too about what I have store for you in my brand new 2024 Mystery Blanket Club plus news of a great Early Bird Special Offer if you sign up before the end of September!
So to begin with there are two tech vids this month - one which will guide you through the stitch pattern for Square 49, Option Two, and one shows you how to sew up using Mattress stitch.
This is a reminder of the techniques that were covered in previous blogs:
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (Option One): the Fairisle technique (February)
- How to knit the decorative loop stitch (February)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February)
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February)
- How to cable (February)
- How to knit a contrast-coloured bobble (February)
- Square 16, Forager: how to knit the exaggerated decorative purl stitch (February)
- Understanding lace stitches (March)
- How to thread beads onto your yarn (March)
- How to bead, the slip-stitch method (March)
- The intarsia technique (March)
- How to add Chain stitch to your knitting (March)
- How to add Swiss darning to knitting (March)
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge using several colours (April)
- Square 23, Dragonfly: Option Two (Rows 1-7) (June)
THE PRINTED PATTERNS HAVE BEEN POSTED TO THE MEMBERS WHO OPTED FOR THEM, with the overseas sent on Tuesday 22nd August and the UK on Saturday 26th August. I apologise if some of the overseas patterns are received a little late as it was tight for time to get them printed and shipped in the few days I had at home in August. However, they are on their way and should be with you soon. But if you want to make a start on a square before your patterns arrive, I suggest that you knit either Square 34 Forager or Square 48 Hawthorn 2 as they are exactly the same as Squares 16 and 2 respectively, from previous mail outs.
I HAVE NOTICED AN ERROR IN THE DESCRIPTION OF TWO OF THE SQUARES IN THE SEPTEMBER MAIL OUT. This doesn’t affect the instructions for these squares, but just to clarify, Square 49, Flora (Option One) is intarsia flower motifs (not leaf), and Square 49, Flora (Option Two) has hooked-in beads (and not slip-stitch).
SIGN-UPS FOR THE 2024 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB ARE NOW OPEN - YIPPEE! - SO YOU CAN GET YOURSELF ONBOARD TODAY FOR MY NEXT GLOBAL BLANKET KAL! Can you believe that this is blanket number seventeen in my Mystery Blanket Club collection!?! We have had a terrific response to our launch which was a week ago, and have already sold over half of the memberships. So thank you to everyone that has signed up so far. You should have received an emailed newsletter from us on the 25th August inviting you to join. But just in case you missed it, here is everything you need to know (or rather, what I am going to let you know!), about my brand new design. So here goes…
What’s in store for 2024?
I am absolutely thrilled to be using my own bespoke Light Wool DK yarn again for this project which has been produced by the wonderful team at Laxtons in North Yorkshire, UK. I have combined it with a few of my most favourite Rowan yarns including Felted Tweed, Alpaca Soft, Kidsilk Haze and Soft Yak. Vibrant shades of teal and ocean blue graduate into bold purples and pinks, which are softened with pale turquoise, dreamy lilac and blush pink laced with flecks of cool silver and pale gold. There are plenty of sparkling beads in it too!
Above: the machines in action at Laxtons Ltd.
The blanket design includes the techniques of intarsia, fairisle, lace, textured stitches, stripes and beads, offering you a feast of squares to knit up over ten months. And there will be a choice of two options - as there is this year - for the trickier squares (fairisle and intarsia), enabling both novice and experienced knitters to participate in this unique knitting experience.
Below: a glimpse of the colour palette...
My monthly tech vids have been extremely popular this year, so I am pleased to say that I will continue with these in a dedicated monthly blog so that you have all the help and support you need as you work your way through the forty-nine squares.
The club begins on 1st February 2024 and runs for ten months until November 2024.
The finished size of the blanket is approximately 135cm x 135cm.
What does my membership include?
Each member will receive a knitting kit which includes over forty balls of premium quality yarn, ten sets of emailed patterns (with the option to purchase additional printed patterns), Debbie Abrahams size 6 beads and a woven label. The kit will be posted in two halves with the first one delivered in February, followed by the second one in May.
NEW! Download pattern option
For the first time we are offering the ten sets of patterns as monthly downloads enabling you to use yarns and beads from your own stash to knit the blanket. The list of yarns and beads for the first part of the kit will be released a week before the project begins. If you decide to purchase the yarn and beads for the project yourself, the cost of all the materials, like for like, is approximately £340. We are unable to guarantee that all of the colours in my Light Merino DK yarn will be available to purchase so substitutes may have to be used.
Below: Mystery Blanket 2021, One Thousand & One Nights.
Early Bird Special Offer!
Take advantage of our Early Bird Special Offer for everyone who signs up before the 30th September (23:59pm):
- 5% off the cost of the membership (knitting kit option only)*
- A free download for a cushion pattern to complement the Mystery Blanket
- 10% discount voucher for a single transaction in our online shop**
- Entry into our Prize Draw with ten gifts up for grabs!
1st Prize: 2024 Mystery Blanket Club membership (for the package you’ve purchased, we will refund what you have paid in full)
2nd Prize: 2024 Mystery Cushion Club membership
3rd and 4th Prizes: Set of 10 printed patterns for the 2024 Mystery Blanket Club
5th & 6th Prizes: Mystery Festive Knit Box
7th & 8th Prizes: Knitting kit from a selection in our online shop (up to the value of £50)
9th & 10th Prizes: 4 packs of beads (colour/s of your own choice, size 8 or size 6)
*the 5% discount does not apply to the purchase of download patterns.
**excludes Mystery products.
Winners of the Prize Draw will be notified by email on the 1st November.
Choose to spread the cost of your payment
For those who would prefer to pay in instalments we have an easy-to-use payment system in place called Splitit which enables you to make your payment between 2-4 months. This means you can secure your membership today with a deposit with nothing more to pay until next month. Simply select Splitit at checkout when you make your first payment and then your remaining payments will be taken automatically from your account. If you choose this option you will still be included in the Early Bird Special Offer.
Below: Mystery Blanket 2020: Our Precious Earth.
How do I make my purchase?
It’s really easy. You just need to visit the shop on our website and there you will find the 2024 Mystery Blanket Club for sale. There are several options to choose from starting with the download pattern only option (no knitting kit), followed by the basic package which includes the full knitting kit and emailed monthly pattens. Or you can upgrade and add on printed patterns (UK and overseas), and/or Special Delivery (UK only). All overseas parcels are posted by Tracked International Delivery.
Memberships are limited and when they have sold out the club will be closed. So if you want to be part of this unique knitting experience and don’t want to miss out on all the fun and excitement next year, pop across to our shop and get yourself signed up today. And then you’ll have peace of mind that you are onboard again for another great knitting adventure with me next year. I can hardly wait for it to begin!
WITH JUST TWO MORE INSTALMENTS TO GO BEFORE THE MYSTERY BLANKET IS REVEALED, MOST OF YOU HAVE GUESSED THE TITLE. Our most recent correct guessers are Maria Didonna, Cynthia Wenden, Laura Jacobs and Giovanna Maria Ledda, so congratulations to all of you for getting it right! However, for those of you who are still trying to work out what it is, here is another letter to help you. There aren’t many letters left, so this might do the trick, let’s see…
This month the letter I am giving you is... “N”:
T H _ / _ N _ H A N T _ D / _ O R _ S T
The whole title is almost spelt out now, so I am sure you’ll get it this time. If you think you know what it is, send in your answer to Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com and she will let you know if you are right - and if you’re not then you have one more chance after this to get it right. Fingers crossed everyone!
THERE ARE SIX SQUARES TO KNIT THIS MONTH, with alternative options for three of the squares:
Square 11, Frog (Option One) – intarsia frog motif with hooked-in beads and chain stitch details:
Square 11, Dragonfly 2 (Option Two) – cable pattern with hooked-in beads, contrast-coloured bobbles and lace stitches:
Square 12, Bluebells 2 – three-colour stripe slip-stitch pattern (same for both options):
Square 34, Forager – striped pattern with rows of contrast-coloured exaggerated purl stitch (same for both options):
Square 35, Blackcurrants – cable pattern with contrast-coloured bobbles (same for both options):
Square 48, Hawthorn 2 (Option One) – fairisle pattern with stripes, textured stitches and hooked-in beads:
Square 48, Hawthorn 2 (Option Two) – textured pattern with stripes and hooked-in beads:
Square 49, Flora (Option One) – intarsia flower motifs with hooked-in beads and Swiss-darned and chain stitch details:
Square 49, Flora (Option Two) – textured pattern with mini cables and hooked-in beads:
On each pattern page there is a list of Pattern notes and tips that are worth reading before you start to knit each square. These bits of advice will help you and give pre-warnings as to what look out for in the pattern instructions. Also take note of the description under the title of each square as this tells you what the stitch structure is.
You can use the tech vids from previous blogs to help you knit your squares. But here are a few extra tips to assist you:
SQUARE 11, FROG (Option One): this is a new creature to add to the ones you’ve already knitted, and hopefully he will make a great addition to your blanket!
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- The intarsia technique (March blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to add Chain stitch to your knitting (March blog)
I would recommend that you choose the same option that you knitted for Square 39 as this will maintain symmetry and balance in the overall design.
There are only two colours used to knit the frog - Harvest and Acorn - but there are several colours used for the chain stitch embroidery. It is best to get this square blocked and pressed before you add the embroidery to it as this will give you a nice flat surface to work on. You could go freestyle with this if you so wish or stick to what you see on the chart - the decision is completely up to you!
The Velvet beads on the ends of the curly swirls are sewn on rather than knitted in, and are not shown on the chart. The Sienna, Emerald and Black beads are hooked into the work as you knit the square.
SQUARE 11, DRAGONFLY 2 (Option Two): if you don’t fancy knitting Frog then you can opt for this beaded cable and bobble square instead.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 23, Dragonfly: Option Two (Rows 1-7) (June blog)
As mentioned for Option One, I would recommend that you choose the same option that you knitted for Square 39.
This is a busy square with several different techniques combined together. However, if you’ve already knitted this before it’s simply a trip down memory lane. Just make sure that you get yourself nice and comfy as it might take you some time to knit - but it will be well worth it!
SQUARE 12, BLUEBELLS 2: this square is similar to Square 40, Bluebells which you knitted a couple of months ago in July. But there’s a slight change to the colours to give it a subtly different look.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
Chestnut and Elfin remain where they are in this square, but Leaf is swapped out for Acorn. Remember that after all three yarns are joined in they are carried up the side of the work, so there are very few loose ends in this square, which is great news is you don’t like sewing in ends!
SQUARE 34, FORAGER: you will need to think right back to Mail Out 1 when you first knitted this square. It’s an exact repeat of it and completes the set of four Forager squares in the blanket.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
- Square 16, Forager: how to knit the exaggerated decorative purl stitch (February blog)
Because you’ve already knitted this square three times before (including a variation of it), this should be a nice easy knit and one you can sit back and enjoy!
SQUARE 35, BLACKCURRANTS: this square should look familiar, but it’s been recoloured and given a new name…
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to cable
- How to knit a contrast-coloured bobble
This square is similar to Square 15, Chestnuts from Mail Out 1, but Chestnut has been swapped for Blackberry. That is actually the only change that has been made, but doesn’t it look different?
If preferred, you can opt to knit the contrast-coloured bobbles in self-colour instead of using Barn Red and Maple. So I would recommend that you check what you did for Square 15 and repeat that some choice.
You are given both worded instructions and a chart for this square, so you can choose whichever one you prefer to work from. The colours for the bobbles are in colour on the chart, but they might be difficult to see so I have also included initials for them under each bobble, BR is Barn red and M is Maple. Just be wary of the Barn Red yarn as Felted Tweed can be quite fragile, and under duress could break. So when you tighten the bobbles pull gently but firmly on this yarn to avoid this from happening.
You will notice that some of the stitches are worked through the back of the loop (K1tbl and P1tbl). This twists the stitches and makes them tighter neater. It will crisp up the edges of the cables and make them look much neater, so make sure that you remember to do this when instructed.
SQUARE 48, HAWTHORN 2 (Option One): this is same as Square 2 from Mail Out 5.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (Option One): the Fairisle technique (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
If you chose Option One for Square 2, then I would recommend that you choose Option One for this square.
Hawthorn from Mail Out 3 used Barn Red in place of Ginger. But make sure for this square you use Ginger (the same as Square 2). These two Felted Tweed yarns are quite similar in colour, so make sure that you check the ball band and pick up the correct one.
SQUARE 48, HAWTHORN 2 (Option Two): this is your alternative option to knit if you don’t fancy Option One, and should be the same choice that you made for Square 2.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February)
- How to knit the decorative loop stitch (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
This is the last time you will knit Hawthorn 2, but if you look at the piecing diagram, there might be one more Hawthorn square to knit…but you’ll have to wait another month to see!
SQUARE 49, FLORA (Option One): this is the second brand new square this month - stylized flowers in rich, dark shades Swiss-darned details, swirls of embroidery and hooked-in beads. Go for this option if you fancy a bit of a challenge and some more intarsia.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge using several colours (April blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- The intarsia technique (March blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to add Swiss darning to knitting (March blog)
- How to add Chain stitch to your knitting (March blog)
You can choose either option for this square as it won’t be affected by any of the other choices you have made so far. So perhaps have a good look at the chart and see what you think…
You will need to use several separate balls of yarn (or bobbins) to knit this square, remembering that it is a single thickness multi-coloured piece of knitting so carrying yarns across the back should only be done when absolutely necessary.
I decided to use white for the background colour of the chart instead of Shadow as this made the floral motifs and the chain stitch embroidery easier to see. The colour names for the chain stitch have been added to the chart as well.
The Lime beads on the Ginger flower are hooked in, and keep an eye out for the single Indigo bead in the middle of this flower, which is also hooked in. There is a Lime bead sewn onto the end of each of the three stamens on the Mulberry flower which might be difficult to see on the image (and they are not shown on the chart).
The outlines on the petals are Swiss-darned and should be added to the square after it has been blocked and pressed. You may, however choose to knit in these details instead, which is perfectly okay if you don’t fancy embroidering them. There is Blackberry Swiss-darning on the Barn Red and Mulberry flowers, Mulberry on the Ginger flower, and Acorn on the Blackberry flower.
You could have a lot of fun with this one and swap the colours of the embroidery and beads around if you so wish. I did quite a few variations of this square and played about with the embroidery until I decided on this combination. But there is nothing stopping you from having a play too!
SQUARE 49, FLORA (Option Two): if you don’t fancy intarsia you can go for this option instead and knit a brand new square that combines together crossed and twisted stitches with hooked-in beads and cables.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- NEW THIS MONTH! Square 49, Flora, Option Two (Rows 5 and 7)
There are some tricky new stitches in this pattern which you might need some assistance with, so take a look at the new tech vid in this blog which shows you the following: T2R, T2L, C2R and C2L. They basically cross stitches over and move them across the work in a diagonal line, but some of the stitches are worked through the back of the loop and some are worked through the front. So a quick look at the tech vid might be a good idea to ensure that you are knitting them all correctly.
There is quite a lot going on in this square, especially on Row 1 where there are cables, crossed stitches and beads to hook in. But take your time, read the pattern carefully, row by row, and you will be fine. Some of the rows took me a long time to complete, but the end result is lovely and worth the investment of time.
You can choose to work from either worded instructions or a chart, or you can work from both, if preferred. The chart on page 30 has a lot of symbols on it, so be sure that you read them correctly from the key below it. I also want to point out that P1tbl which is only on one side of the floral shape, is correct (in other words it should not be duplicated on the opposite side).
One last thing to mention is that this square uses a smaller needle than the recommended main needle size of 3.50mm. This is necessary to ensure that this square knits up to the same size as all the others in the blanket.
WITH THREE STRIPS COMPLETED AFTER THIS INSTALMENT, YOU COULD GET AHEAD AND SEW SOME OF THEM TOGETHER. If you decide to make a start on this, these useful tips will guide you through the process.
If you have knitted your squares separately then you will need to join these together first to create strips 5, 6 and 7 (these are the three vertical rows of squares on the right side of the Piecing diagram on page 4 (Squares 29-35, 36-42 and 43-49). If you need some guidance with this, check out the tech vid in the February blog for horizontal mattress stitch which demonstrates this technique.
Once you have your three strips completed you can make a start. This is a guide to how to sew the squares together using Mattress stitch. It is important to note that these are my suggestions as to how to sew together the squares, but please feel free to use your own method and sequence if preferred.
In this blanket all of the squares are facing in the same direction (in some of the previous Mystery Blankets the squares were turned upside down or were positioned on their side). So this makes it much easier to sew together. All you need to watch out for is the number of rows, which as you know does vary from square to square. This means that some easing in will be required.
These instructions are based on taking the needle under 2 ‘bars’ at a time as demonstrated in the tech vid for vertical mattress stitch. To ease in a row, you will need to take your needle under one less bar on the side you are easing the extra row into.
Before we make a start, these are some extra tips on easing in rows:
- Garter stitch rows have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so for every row of Garter stitch (which is two knit rows), ease these two rows into one stocking stitch row.
- Slip-stitch beads (and slip-stitch patterns) have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this across beaded rows, taking the needle under more of the beaded rows than the stocking stitch rows.
- Fairisle usually has a looser row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this across fairisle rows, taking the needle under more of the stocking stitch rows than the fairisle rows.
- For a square that has an all-over pattern, such as Square 10 Bracken, any easings need to be spread out evenly across the total number of rows (and not eased in all at one end or unevenly).
When there are two options on a square, I have given separate instructions for each option, so make sure that you check which one you need to follow for your choice of squares. If you have mixed your options then you might have to work out some of the easings yourself, but the Chart for Stitch and Row Reference on page 5 will help you with this.
These are my guidelines and do not have to be followed if you prefer to use your own method and calculations.
SEW STRIP 5 (squares 29-35) TO STRIP 6 (squares 36-42)
Sew Square 29 (63 rows) to Square 36 (Option One) (66 rows): you need to ease 3 rows of Square 36 (Option One) into Square 29.
Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 36 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Ease in 3 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 29 is matched to the marker on Square 36 (Option One).
Sew Square 29 (63 rows) to Square 36 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 36 (Option Two) into Square 29.
Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 36 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 29 is matched to the marker on Square 36 (Option Two).
Sew Square 30 (72 rows) to Square 37 (Option One) (59 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 30 into Square 37 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 37 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 30 is matched to the marker on Square 37 (Option One).
Sew Square 30 (72 rows) to Square 37 (Option Two) (60 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 30 into Square 37 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 37 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Ease in 12 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 30 is matched to the marker on Square 37 (Option Two).
Sew Square 31 (61 rows) to Square 38 (85 rows): you need to ease 24 rows of Square 38 into Square 31.
Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 38 place a marker on Row 43.
Ease in 24 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 31 is matched to the marker on Square 38.
Sew Square 32 (Option One) (72 rows) to Square 39 (Option One) (59 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 32 (Option One) into Square 39 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 39 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 32 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 39 (Option One).
Sew Square 32 (Option Two) (86 rows) to Square 39 (Option Two) (63 rows): you need to ease 23 rows of Square 32 (Option Two) into Square 39 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 43 and 44.
Along the edge of Square 39 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 23 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 32 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 39 (Option Two).
Sew Square 33 (57 rows) to Square 40 (85 rows): you need to ease 28 rows of Square 40 into Square 33.
Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker on Row 29.
Along the edge of Square 40 place a marker on Row 43.
Ease in 28 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 33 is matched to the marker on Square 40.
Sew Square 34 (72 rows) to Square 41 (Option One & Option Two) (60 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 34 into Square 41 (Option One & Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 41 (Option One & Option Two) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Ease in 12 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 34 is matched to the marker on Square 41 (Option One & Option Two).
Sew Square 35 (64 rows) to Square 42 (Option One) (66 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 42 (Option One) into Square 35.
Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Along the edge of Square 42 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 35 is matched to the marker on Square 42 (Option One).
Sew Square 35 (64 rows) to Square 42 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 10 rows of Square 42 (Option Two) into Square 35.
Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Along the edge of Square 42 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Ease in 10 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 35 is matched to the marker on Square 42 (Option Two).
SEW STRIP 6 (squares 36-42) TO STRIP 7 (squares 43-49)
Sew Square 36 (Option One) (66 rows) to Square 43 (Option One) (60 rows): you need to ease 6 rows of Square 36 (Option One) into Square 43 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 36 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Along the edge of Square 43 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Ease in 6 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 36 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 43 (Option One).
Sew Square 36 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 43 (Option Two) (69 rows): you need to ease 5 rows of Square 36 (Option Two) into Square 43 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 36 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Along the edge of Square 43 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 35.
Ease in 5 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 36 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 43 (Option Two).
Sew Square 37 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 44 (Option One) (66 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 44 (Option One) into Square 37 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 37 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 44 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 37 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 44 (Option One).
Sew Square 37 (Option Two) (60 rows) to Square 44 (Option Two) (82 rows): you need to ease 22 rows of Square 44 (Option Two) into Square 37 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 37 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Along the edge of Square 44 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 41 and 42.
Ease in 22 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 37 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 44 (Option Two).
Sew Square 38 (85 rows) to Square 45 (62 rows): you need to ease 23 rows of Square 38 into Square 45.
Along the edge of Square 38 place a marker on Row 43.
Along the edge of Square 45 place a marker between Rows 31 and 32.
Ease in 23 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 38 is matched to the marker on Square 45.
Sew Square 39 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 46 (Option One) (66 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 46 (Option One) into Square 39 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 39 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 46 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 39 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 46 (Option One).
Sew Square 39 (Option Two) (63 rows) to Square 46 (Option Two) (82 rows): you need to ease 19 rows of Square 46 (Option Two) into Square 39 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 39 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 46 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 41 and 42.
Ease in 19 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 39 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 46 (Option Two).
Sew Square 40 (85 rows) to Square 47 (61 rows): you need to ease 24 rows of Square 40 into Square 47.
Along the edge of Square 40 place a marker on Row 43.
Along the edge of Square 47 place a marker on Rows 31.
Ease in 24 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 40 is matched to the marker on Square 47.
Sew Square 41 (Option One) (60 rows) to Square 48 (Option One) (66 rows): you need to ease 6 rows of Square 48 (Option One) into Square 41 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 41 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Along the edge of Square 48 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Ease in 6 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 41 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 48 (Option One).
Sew Square 41 (Option Two) (60 rows) to Square 48 (Option Two) (82 rows): you need to ease 22 rows of Square 48 (Option Two) into Square 41 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 41 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Along the edge of Square 48 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 41 and 42.
Ease in 22 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 41 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 48 (Option Two).
Sew Square 42 (Option One) (66 rows) to Square 49 (Option One) (60 rows): you need to ease 6 rows of Square 42 (Option One) into Square 49 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 42 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Along the edge of Square 49 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Ease in 6 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 42 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 49 (Option One).
Sew Square 42 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 49 (Option Two) (63 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 42 (Option Two) into Square 49 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 42 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Along the edge of Square 49 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 42 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 49 (Option Two).
IF YOU’VE ENJOYED KNITTING A BEADYKNITS PROJECT, OR YOU ARE NEW TO THEM AND ARE EAGER TO HAVE A GO, then Jenny has been busy designing a lovely new case which she is thrilled to tell you about…
Jenny says: “My Persian Case is the perfect place to store away all your bits and bobs, whether it’s your knitting odds and ends or your small personal possessions. The fairisle sections and the beaded details give you the perfect opportunity to try out these two techniques. And with a simple construction and an easy to sew in lining with a magnetic clasp fastening, it’s the ideal project to add to your creative makes this Autumn!”
The finished size of the case is approximately 20cm x 23cm and the kit includes all the materials that you need to make it, including Debbie Abrahams beads, a magnetic clasp and lining fabric.
Kit price: £29.95 (+ shipping costs which are calculated upon order).
To find out more contact Jenny at jenny@BeadyKnits.com or visit her Etsy shop: BeadyKnitsbyJenny
Please note that BeadyKnits kits are not available to purchase in our Debbie Abrahams Ltd online store.
THE NEXT ‘MYSTERY’ MEET UP AT YARN LOFT IN NOTTINGHAM IS ON WEDNESDAY 6TH SEPTEMBER. It will be lovely to catch up with the local ladies after a break in August. The meeting begins from 4pm and runs until 6pm. Yarn Loft is a fabulous yarn store on 118 Hucknall Road, Carrington, Nottingham, tel number 07825 702433, website: www.yarnloft.co.uk. To cover the costs of hosting the meeting there is a small sub to pay (£3.00), which can be paid to Doreen on the day.
Just send a quick email to me at debbie@debbieabrahams.com to let me know you are coming and we will make sure that we reserve a space for you!
IF YOU DON’T FOLLOW US ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS THEN PLEASE COME AND JOIN US, and enjoy the messages and photos that are shared between myself and the members:
Instagram: debbieabrahams_knitting
Pinterest: debbieabrahams@debbieabrahamsk
Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters
Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Handknits
Ravelry: Debbie Abrahams Handknits
I HAVE A GREAT TIP FROM ONE OF THE MEMBERS TO SHARE WITH YOU. Maria Didonna from Bloomingdale in Illinois, USA, has sent in this great tip and step-by-step photos for splicing together wool yarns. She has been using it in her Mystery Blanket and consequently managed to cut down on the amount of loose ends - which is always a bonus! This is her tip:
Maria said: “I use this technique every time I run out of yarn in the middle of a row. This technique only works with natural fibers. I have felted or spliced yarn that is up to 65% wool. At 65 % it’s trial and error, but wool that is 75% or more works great.
Step one - take the two ends of yarn that needs to be felted together and with a sharp needle pull apart the ends.
Step two - take the two ends to the sink and run them hot water. Lay the two ends on top of each other, wet with hot water and add a dab of soap (any liquid soap is fine). Wet them again with hot water and roll them in the palm of your hands.
NOTE: I like to twist the two ends of yarn in my fingers first and then in the palm of my hands. Keep rolling until you see that the thread has combined. It can be tested by tugging on each end of the thread. If it doesn’t combine add more hot water to them and roll them in the palm of your hands again. The friction from your hands and the soap will felt the threads.”
This is a really great tip Maria, so thanks for it sharing it with us! And your photos are a fabulous help too and show very clearly how this is done. It’ something that I can’t wait to try out myself, and I am sure that some of the other members will give it a go too!
ONE LAST THING BEFORE THE WINNER OF THE SEPTEMBER PRIZE DRAW IS ANNOUNCED… I JUST WANT TO DO A QUICK SHOUT OUT FOR A MYSTERY BLANKET KIT. It’s a bit of a long shot as this one goes back fourteen years (!) but if anyone has a 2009 Arabian Nights knitting kit that they are willing to sell, I have a lady who is eager to purchase it. (Kits can be sold in their entirety with all the yarn and beads and embellishments included. The selling on of the patterns for the blankets is however, prohibited). Please contact me directly at debbie@debbieabrahams.com if you are able to help with this request and I will put you in touch with the prospective buyer.
Below: Mystery Blanket 2009, Arabian Nights.
AND FINALLY, IT’S TIME TO ANNOUNCE THE WINNER OF THE EIGHTH 2023 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB PRIZE DRAW!!! Each month a member is picked at random to win a Debbie Abrahams prize. So it is worth reading right the way to the end of each blog to see if you are that lucky member!
PRIZE DRAW EIGHT (SEPTEMBER): this month’s winner is member 110, Christine Planchak from Harrogate, North Yorkshire in the UK. Well done Christine! Please choose a prize from the following selection:
- Your choice of one of Debbie’s knitting kits up to the value of £28.00 (take a look at them in our online shop).
- Five packs of Debbie Abrahams Beads (size 8/0 or 6/0) from the selection on http://www.debbieabrahamsbeads.co.uk
- A £25 voucher (or £25 refund) for a Debbie Abrahams Mystery Club membership: 2024 Mystery Blanket Club or 2024 Mystery Cushion Club.
- A Mystery bag of five gifts!
We will notify Chistine to let her know the good news!
Now it’s time to make a start on your September squares, and with all the tips and advice this month you should be in good stead for a very enjoyable and stress-free four weeks of knitting. For those of you who have signed up to the Mystery Baby Blanket Club, your parcels are being prepped for shipping, so you will have a whole new knitting adventure to begin very soon - how exciting! And with just eight more squares left of this project, your 2023 Mystery Blanket journey is almost over. But if you’ve enjoyed it and are up for another one, don’t forget to get yourself signed up for 2024 and enjoy all the benefits of our Early Bird Special Offer if you jump on board before the end of September!
It’s back to school in our household for the start of a brand new year for Seth, and that’s always a signal to me that it’s time to get cracking with all my new projects. So without further ado, I am going to sign off now and wish you all a fabulous September. Have fun everyone and keep those needles clicking until I see you back here at the beginning of October for the penultimate instalment (I can’t believe that I am saying that!), Debbie x
