WOW! HERE WE ARE AT THE FINISHING POST FOR THE 2023 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB! After ten months of knitting up forty-nine squares, we have reached the end of another epic blanket adventure, and the title is finally revealed! We had a couple more correct guesses sent in over the past few weeks, but if you are still not sure what it is, then the guessing game is now over. Watch my intro vid below to find out what it is and read on to find out more about the final squares (and the edging) that you are knitting this month!
So it’s time to settle back in your most comfy chair with a cuppa and tune into my November intro. In my vid I talk about the inspiration behind the project and give you an insight into my design process, so it’s worth a watch before you grab your knitting needles…
The library of tech vids that have been in my blogs over the past ten months are listed here. The blogs will remain on our website indefinitely so that you can access them and all the tech vids whenever you need to.
This is a reminder of the techniques that were covered in all the previous blogs:
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (Option One): the Fairisle technique (February)
- How to knit the decorative loop stitch (February)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February)
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February)
- How to cable (February)
- How to knit a contrast-coloured bobble (February)
- Square 16, Forager: how to knit the exaggerated decorative purl stitch (February)
- Understanding lace stitches (March)
- How to thread beads onto your yarn (March)
- How to bead, the slip-stitch method (March)
- The intarsia technique (March)
- How to add Chain stitch to your knitting (March)
- How to add Swiss darning to knitting (March)
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge using several colours (April)
- Square 23, Dragonfly: Option Two (Rows 1-7) (June)
- Square 49, Flora (Option Two) (September)
- Mattress stitch (vertical) (September)
There is no new tech vid for picking up stitches for the edgings, but if you follow the link below to the November MBC21 blog and scroll down the page, you will see two tech vids, Picking up stitches along a cast-on edge for the Edging and Picking up stitches along a selvedge edge: https://debbieabrahams.com/blogs/news/mystery-blanket-club-2021-post-10-november-the-final-instalment
THE FINAL SET OF PRINTED PATTERNS HAVE BEEN POSTED TO THE MEMBERS WHO OPTED FOR THEM, with the overseas sent on Tuesday 24th October and the UK on Monday 30th October. I am hearing from some of the members that the patterns are arriving in the post after the 1st of the month, and if this has affected you then I apologise for the delay. Postal systems around the world differ so much in their speed and efficiency, and some arrive within a week, whilst others take 2-3 weeks to be delivered. If you are sitting waiting for your printed brochure to arrive then remember that you can always download the file and either work from the digital version or print off a few pages of it until your patterns arrive.
At this point in the blanket there are lots of things that need doing such as sewing in ends and sewing strips together so you could always get on with these tasks in the meantime.
THERE ARE NO PHOTOS OF THE COMPLETED OPTION TWO BLANKET IN THE NOVEMBER MAIL-OUT. However, I will be featuring it in a special 2023 Mystery Blanket blog later on this month. So make sure you hop back over to our website to take a look at what the completed alternative version looks like.
BEFORE I TALK ABOUT THE SQUARES YOU ARE KNITTING IN THIS FINAL INSTALMENT, I JUST WANT TO REMIND YOU THAT SIGN-UPS FOR THE 2024 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB ARE OPEN, SO IF YOU HAVEN’T SIGNED UP YET, THERE IS STILL TIME! Now that this year’s blanket is coming to an end, you might be starting to think about your projects for next year. So if you want to continue with exciting monthly pattern instalments and all the fun of a ‘mystery’ KAL, then why not grab yourself a membership and get yourself on board? From the 1st February a brand new knitting adventure will begin, with new colours and yarns, and a totally different theme. What could be better than sitting back and waiting for that first parcel to arrive, full of gorgeous yarns in fabulous colours, and a brand new set of squares to knit up!?!
Below: 2020 Mystery Blanket, Our Precious Earth.
You’ve got until the 31st December to sign up, however, the Club will close as soon as all of the memberships are sold. So it’s best not to delay and get yourself onboard today so you don’t miss out!
What’s in store for 2024?
I am absolutely thrilled to be using my own bespoke Light Wool DK yarn again for this project which has been produced by the wonderful team at Laxtons in North Yorkshire, UK. I have combined it with a few of my most favourite Rowan yarns including Felted Tweed, Alpaca Soft, Kidsilk Haze and Soft Yak. Vibrant shades of teal and ocean blue graduate into bold purples and pinks, which are softened with pale turquoise, dreamy lilac and blush pink laced with flecks of cool silver and pale gold. There are plenty of sparkling beads in it too!
Above: a suggestion of the colour palette for the 2024 Mystery Blanket.
The blanket design includes the techniques of intarsia, fairisle, lace, textured stitches, stripes and beads, offering you a feast of squares to knit up over ten months. And there will be a choice of two options - as there is this year - for the trickier squares (fairisle and intarsia), enabling both novice and experienced knitters to participate in this unique knitting experience.
My monthly tech vids have been extremely popular this year, so I am pleased to say that I will continue with these in a dedicated monthly blog so that you have all the help and support you need as you work your way through the forty-nine squares.
The club begins on 1st February 2024 and runs for ten months until November 2024.
The finished size of the blanket is approximately 135cm x 135cm.
What does my membership include?
Each member will receive a knitting kit which includes over forty balls of premium quality yarn, ten sets of emailed patterns (with the option to purchase additional printed patterns), Debbie Abrahams size 6 beads and a woven label. The kit will be posted in two halves with the first one delivered in February, followed by the second one in May.
Below: 2009 Mystery Blanket, Arabian Nights.
NEW! Download pattern option
For the first time we are offering the ten sets of patterns as monthly downloads enabling you to use yarns and beads from your own stash to knit the blanket. The list of yarns and beads for the first part of the kit will be released a week before the project begins. If you decide to purchase the yarn and beads for the project yourself, the cost of all the materials, like for like, is approximately £340. We are unable to guarantee that all of the colours in my Light Merino DK yarn will be available to purchase so substitutes may have to be used.
Choose to spread the cost of your payment
For those who would prefer to pay in instalments we have an easy-to-use payment system in place called Splitit which enables you to make your payment between 2-4 months. This means you can secure your membership today with a deposit with nothing more to pay until next month. Simply select Splitit at checkout when you make your first payment and then your remaining payments will be taken automatically from your account. If you choose this option you will still be included in the Early Bird Special Offer.
How do I make my purchase?
It’s really easy. You just need to visit the shop on our website and there you will find the 2024 Mystery Blanket Club for sale. There are several options to choose from starting with the basic package which includes the full knitting kit and emailed monthly pattens. Or you can upgrade and add on printed patterns (UK and overseas), and/or Special Delivery (UK only). All overseas parcels are posted by Tracked International Delivery.
Memberships are limited and when they have sold out the club will be closed. So if you want to be part of this unique knitting experience and don’t want to miss out on all the fun and excitement next year, pop across to our shop and get yourself signed up today. And then you’ll have peace of mind that you are onboard again for another great knitting adventure with me next year. I can hardly wait for it to begin!
EARLY BIRD WINNERS! Thank you to everyone that signed up to the 2024 Mystery Blanket Club before the 30th September. If you got yourself signed up within the first month then you are eligible for lots of great Early Bird offers, including entry into the Prize Draw.
And I am delighted to announce today the winners of the Early Bird Prize Draw!
1st Prize: Joanna Taylor (member 65) from the UK: 2024 Mystery Blanket Club membership (for the package you’ve purchased, we will refund what you have paid in full).
2nd Prize: Jean Jeffcoate (member 222) from the UK: 2024 Mystery Cushion Club membership.
3rd and 4th Prizes: Beatriz Greuter (member 420) from Switzerland, and Christine Planchak (member 190) from the UK: set of 10 printed patterns for the 2024 Mystery Blanket Club
5th & 6th Prizes: Yvonne Hawkins (member 409) from New Zealand, and Carol Millman (member 407) from the USA: Mystery Festive Knit Box
7th & 8th Prizes: Linda Urwin (member 129) from the UK, and Julie Pacey (member 179) from the UK: knitting kit from a selection in our online shop (up to the value of £50)
9th & 10th Prizes: Frances Hourican (member 491) from the USA, and Karen Whittaker (member 90) from the UK: 4 packs of beads (colour/s of your own choice, size 8 or size 6)
Well done to all the winners! I will email each of you to confirm your prize and where to post it to (where applicable).
SO, IF YOU’VE WATCHED MY INTRO, YOU WILL KNOW WHAT THE TITLE IS OF THE 2023 MYSTERY BLANKET. We've had a couple more correct guesses, and this time (and for the final time!), the congrats go to Sandy Cerato and Marie Godin, so very well done to you!
But if you haven’t watched my intro, I can now reveal that the title of the 2023 Mystery Blanket is…..
T H E / E N C H A N T E D / F O R E S T
So, did you guess what the centre square was, or did it come as a complete surprise? There were many possibilities for this, but I opted for a fox as this is one of my favourite woodland creatures. It was a challenging animal to knit with all that beautiful fluffy white and chestnut coloured fur, wiry whiskers, and piercing eyes. But I think he contributes quite nicely to the overall theme of an enchanted forest with his roguish good looks and steely gaze. He is at the centre of the forest, keeping an eye on all the other creatures and watching you too! I hope you like him.
Thank you to everyone who joined in the fun and sent in their guesses. And well done to everyone who got it right! If you want to find out more about the blanket and hear about how my inspiration was turned into The Enchanted Forest, then scroll back to my intro vid and all will be revealed!
IN THIS FINAL INSTALMENT THERE ARE FOUR SQUARES TO KNIT, PLUS THE EDGING, with alternative options for all four of the squares:
Square 25, Sly Fox (Option One) – intarsia fox motif with hooked-in beads and embroidered details:
Square 25, Toadstool 3 (Option Two) – textured pattern with hooked-in beads:
Square 26, Deadly Nightshade (Option One) – fairisle pattern with stripes, textured stitches and hooked-in and slip-stitch beads:
Square 26, Deadly Nightshade (Option Two) – striped pattern with textured stitches and slip-stitch beads:
Square 27, Butterfly (Option One) – intarsia butterfly with hooked-in beads and chain stitch details:
Square 27, Dragonfly 2 (Option Two) – cable pattern with hooked-in beads, contrast coloured bobbles and lace stitches:
Square 28, The Elves & Imps Are Back! (Option One) – fairisle pattern with stripes, textured stitches and hooked-in beads:
Square 28, The Elves & Imps Are Back! (Option Two) – textured pattern with stripes and hooked-in beads:
On each pattern page there is a list of Pattern notes and tips that are worth reading before you start to knit each square. These bits of advice will help you and give pre-warnings as to what to look out for in the pattern instructions. Also take note of the description under the title of each square as this tells you what the stitch structure is.
You can use the tech vids from previous blogs to help you knit your squares. But here are a few extra tips to assist you:
SQUARE 25, SLY FOX (Option One): this is the centre square, the one you’ve been waiting for! So will you opt for this, or the textured and beaded alternative? Now is your time to decide…
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge using several colours (April blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- The intarsia technique (March blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to add Swiss darning to knitting (March blog)
It does not matter which option you choose as it is the centre of the blanket – both will look fabulous! - so the choice is up to you.
There is a multi-colour cast on for this square, so if you need some guidance the tech vid from the April blog will help you with this. I worked out how many separate balls of yarn I would need for the whole square and prepped my bobbins before I made a start on it. I filled up my bobbins for the larger areas, but used lengths of yarn for the smaller areas, such as the eyes (Harvest) and the Ginger and Barn Red sections on his body – I found this easier to handle than a large bundle of bobbins.
There are four black beads in this square – two for his nose and two for his eyes. These are hooked in so no pre-threading is required.
Depending on how confident you are with your intarsia knitting skills, you can choose to knit in the outlines (mentioned in the third Pattern note and tip), or you can embroider them onto the knitting using Swiss darning. I chose to embroider them onto the knitting as not only did I find this easier and neater to do, but I like the slight raise to the surface of the knitting that the embroidered stitches give. I think it adds to both the look and the feel of the overall square. And as long as your Swiss-darning skills are pretty good, you can cover the stitches quite easily with the contrast-coloured yarns.
The final thing to mention is the whiskers which are embroidered onto the knitting using a basic running stitch. I am no expert on embroidery so this really is a simple stitch, just running the needle through the work creating long stitches. The chart and the image are there to guide you, but if you have a fabric pen (the one that disappears after a while), then you could draw them onto the knitting to give you guidelines. And that way you should get them right first time.
I really enjoyed knitting the fox and I think he makes a splendid centre square! But if you are looking for an alternative, you could consider Square 25, Option Two…
SQUARE 25, TOADSTOOL 3 (Option Two): this beaded stitch pattern has featured in the blanket a few times already, but here it is in a brand new, vibrant colourway!
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
If you’ve knitted this square before then you will know that this is the pattern with a variable stitch count, which varies between 61 and 59 stitches. I have included the count at the end of every row, so you can stay well on track. It’s a good idea to count the number of stitches at the end of every row after there have been increases or decreases made, just to make sure you haven’t missed any. I found the ‘M3’ towards the end of Rows 7 and 15 particularly difficult to remember, so watch out for these.
If you are unfamiliar with the abbreviations ‘s2kpo’ and ‘M3’, you will find the explanations for them on page 39 of your November mail out. The first one, ‘s2kpo’ is a double decrease, and ‘M3’ is a double increase. They are very easy to do, but it would be a good idea to check them out before you knit them as they might vary slightly in comparison to other patterns you may have worked on previously.
This square uses a smaller needle than the suggested main needle size of 3.50mm. So make sure you grab your 3.25mm needles and not the slightly larger ones!
If you have knitted all Option Two squares in this blanket, you will probably find that you won’t have enough of the Pumpkin yarn to knit the Colourway B edgings. Instructions for the edgings begin on page 28 of your November mail out, where you will find the choices for Colourway A and Colourway B. If you are not going to have enough Pumpkin yarn, then we have a few more balls of it that can be purchased directly from us (email sue@debbieabrahams.com). Alternatively, if you knitted the 2021 Mystery Blanket, One Thousand and One Nights, then you might have stashed away some of the left over Coral yarn from this project (you had a lot of it!), and this is basically the same colour as Pumpkin – you would not be able to tell the difference between them. So you could always use this yarn for the edgings. If you are unsure or in any doubt as to what to do, drop me a line and I will advise you.
It would be advisable to check the number of beads you have left too – you will need 80 Bronze, 32 Emerald and 31 Lime. Depending on the choices of squares you have made previously, you might find that you don’t have enough of some of them and therefore will have to substitute them for other colours. I think that a random selection of all the colours would look really fantastic. Why not give it a go?!? This is your opportunity to make this square unique and have a real play with the beads!
SQUARE 26, DEADLY NIGHTSHADE (Option One): you will recognise this square from the July mail out - it is exactly the same as Square 24.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (Option One): the Fairisle technique (February blog)
- How to thread beads onto your yarn (March blog)
- How to bead, the slip-stitch method (March blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
I would advise that you knit the same option that you knitted for Square 24 to keep the central part of the blanket balanced.
There is some transferring of stitches to do at certain points in the pattern (for example, after Rows 7-9), so it would be beneficial to use either double-pointed needles or a circular needle to knit this square.
There are several tech vids from previous blogs (see above) that you can take a look at if you need some assistance. Just be aware that these are for technical reference only as you are working with completely different colours of yarns and beads to those that are used in the vid.
SQUARE 26, DEADLY NIGHTSHADE (Option Two): this is the option you should knit it you knitted Option Two for Square 24.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February)
- How to knit the decorative loop stitch (February blog)
- How to thread beads onto your yarn (March blog)
- How to bead, the slip-stitch method (March blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
This mix of beaded stripes, decorative slip stitch patterns and exaggerated purl stitch should keep you on your toes all the way through this square. The techniques are actually all very straightforward – there is nothing too complicated here. And if you’ve knitted this square before, then you should sail through it. Enjoy!
SQUARE 27, BUTTERFLY (Option One): this is your final creature square who can’t wait to join all the others in the blanket!
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- The intarsia technique (March blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to add Chain stitch to your knitting (March blog)
I would recommend that you opt for the same square you chose for Square 23, Option One, which was an intarsia Dragonfly.
The embroidery on this square (chain stitch), makes this square look busy and perhaps a little complicated, but the actual knitting of it is very straightforward. You will need several bobbins or small balls of yarn, remembering that each separate area of colour will need its own ball/bobbin. So you will need two of Clay (for the lower wings), three of the background colour, Harvest (I used two bobbins and the whole ball), two of Acorn (for the upper wings), and one of Ginger (for the butterfly’s body). The shapes of the wings are quite wide and large, so once you’ve joined in Clay (and Acorn further up), it’s just a case of keeping an eye on the chart as the stitches move inwards and outwards across the rows. Remember that if a yarn on the next row up has moved further out or in, you will need to carry it across the back of the work so that it is in a better position to pick up and use for the row above. Depending on the direction you are knitting (RS or WS row) and whether the stitches are moving in or out (to the left or to the right), you will need to move the yarn either on the row you are on (which is the row before) or on the row above. A careful check of each row before you begin it will help you to make that decision.
Below: how the back of the square looks...
There is some chain stitch embroidery to add to the knitting on the wings and for the two antenna. There are also some curly swirls at the top and bottom of the square. Use the chart and the image for colour and position. The embroidery is done freehand, so feel free to do your own thing in your own colours, if you so wish. But if you want to duplicate exactly what I have done, then a fabric pen would come in handy here – you can draw on your swirls, circles and antenna and embroider over the top of them. Just make sure it’s a fabric pen (that disappears) and not a felt-tip pen otherwise you might see the lines underneath the embroidery.
Just one last thing, the Velvet beads on the ends of the curly swirls are not knitted in, they are sewn on at the end of the chain stitch – just in case you were wondering why they are not shown on the chart.
SQUARE 27, DRAGONFLY 2 (Option Two): if you don’t fancy knitting the butterfly then you can opt for this beaded cable and bobble square instead.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 23, Dragonfly: Option Two (Rows 1-7) (June blog)
I would recommend that you opt for the same square you chose for Square 11, Option Two, which is the version with the cables twisting to the left (c5f).
There are two versions of Dragonfly (Option Two). For squares 23 and 39 the cables twist to the right (c5b), and for Dragonfly 2 (Option Two) they twist to the left. Everything else is the same.
SQUARE 28, THE ELVES & IMPS ARE BACK! (Option One): this square is similar to Square 22 from the March mail out, but the design has been turned upside down – similar to what I did for Squares 14 and 42.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (Option One): the Fairisle technique (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
I would recommend that you choose the same option that you knitted for Square 22.
So for your final square this is a bit of a trip down memory lane. The stripes with the decorative slip-stitch are a repeat of what you knitted in several other squares in the blanket. And the fairisle section is almost the same as Square 22. It’s been turned upside down so it looks very similar to Square 22 but there is a slight difference.
There are three changes of needle sizes throughout this square, so just keep your eye on these as they will help to make your knitting super neat across all those different stitch patterns.
SQUARE 28, THE ELVES & IMPS ARE BACK! (Option Two): this is the easier option of the two and should match the choice that you made for Square 28.
Videos to watch for assistance with this square:
- How to pick up stitches along a cast-off edge (February blog)
- Mattress stitch (horizontal) (February blog)
- Square 8, Pixies & Nixies (both options): how to knit the decorative slip-stitch (February blog)
- How to knit the decorative loop stitch (February blog)
- How to bead, the hooking-in method (February blog)
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work (February blog)
As with Option One, there are several changes to needle sizes which will help to maintain a uniform width all the way to the top of the square. These are written in bold so that you don’t miss them.
I hope that you enjoy knitting up your final four squares!
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR NOVEMBER SQUARES IT IS ADVISABLE TO KNIT TWO OF THE EDGINGS BEFORE YOU SEW THE FINAL STRIP INTO PLACE. In the Finishing and Edging instructions which begin on page 28 of your November mail out, you are advised to join strip 4 into the blanket after knitting the right-hand and left-hand edgings. This is because it will be much easier to pick up the stitches when the blanket is in two pieces, rather than picking them up when the blanket is one whole piece.
If you have knitted your squares separately then you will need to join them together first to create the final strip which is number 4 (Squares 22-28). If you haven’t joined together the squares for all the other strips, then you will need to do this now so that they are all completed.
The step-by step process for finishing the blanket is given for both options on page 28 of the November mail-out.
SO BEFORE WE TALK ABOUT JOINING STRIP 4 INTO THE BLANKET, LET’S FOCUS ON THE EDGINGS. There is one pattern for all four of them, but it is offered in two colourways, Colourway A and Colourway B. I did not title them ‘Option 1’ and ‘Option 2’ as which one you knit will depend on your choice of squares (especially if you mixed your options), and what yarns and beads you have left over.
Below: Colourway A edging.
Each edging is a garter stitch stripe with a decorative beaded stripe running through the middle of it, and they are mitred at each end. This will result in a perfect join at each corner when you sew them together to complete the blanket.
Below: Colourway B edging.
I have written some notes on page 28 about the colours of the beads and yarns used in the edgings. Each row in the edging uses approximately 2g of my Light Wool DK and 1g of Rowan Felted Tweed, so if you are worried that you may run short of any of the colours it is advisable to weigh your yarn (preferably on scientific scales), to make sure you have enough. And if you are going to run short, use other colours that you do have enough of. The same goes for the beads. Make sure that you have enough of each of the colours you are planning to use before you begin each edging. And if you find that you don’t have enough, you could consider alternating them (ie, Red, Gold, Red Gold, etc), or you could go wild and use a random selection. Your blanket will still look fabulous and a slight change to your edging will make it look even more unique!
In last month’s blog I told you what you would need to knit the edgings, but here is a reminder:
- a circular 2.75mm (US 2) (UK 12) 100cm length needle
- a circular 3.50mm (US 4) (UK n/a) 100cm length needle
- one 3.50mm (US 4) (UK n/a) needle for casting off the stitches
In previous years I have recommended using two circular needles for each edging – one to pick up the stitches and the other to knit them onto (like knitting with two very long needles). However, my test knitters have assured me that this is unnecessary, and that one circular needle will do the job just as well.
Remember that if you have had to change your main needle size for this project, then you will need to make the same changes to the needles for the edgings.
You are instructed to swap needle sizes a few times when you knit the edgings. This is to ensure that the tension is maintained throughout the changes in stitch structure, so it is important to take notice of this if you want super neat edgings!
For both options, make sure that you cast off the stitches neatly and evenly as these are finished edges. The edgings are cast off using a 3.50mm straight needle (or circular), but you are advised to cast off using a larger needle than this if the cast-off edge is too tight.
FOR GUIDANCE AS TO HOW TO PICK UP STITCHES FOR THE EDGINGS YOU CAN USE THE LINK AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS BLOG WHICH TAKES YOU TO THE 2021 MYSTERY BLANKET BLOG. There you will find tech vids for picking up stitches along selvedge edges and cast-on and cast-off edges.
For each of the edgings I have advised how many stitches to pick up along the edge of each square, so it is essential that you read this very carefully and stick to it so you get the correct amount. This will involve some easing in along some of the squares (ie, picking up 46 stitches along a squares that has 60 rows). There is some advice below about how to do this. When I picked up my stitches I didn’t always get the number I needed first time round and sometimes I had to go back and forth several times to get it right. So don’t worry if this happens to you – it is quite normal and should be expected.
The Stitch and Row Reference diagrams on page 5 of the November mail show the number of stitches and rows in each square. So this is a really helpful reference to use while you are picking up the stitches.
These written notes about how to pick up the stitches and space them evenly may also be useful:
- along a side/selvedge edge: usually the basic rule to follow here is to pick up 3 out of 4 stitches, however, this will not work with every square in this blanket as the row count is not always the same. So the best way to do this is to plan out the pick up along the edge of each square separately. Place markers at equal points of measurement along the edge of the square and then divide the total number of stitches you need to pick up by the number of sections you have marked out. For example, Square 45 has 46 stitches to pick up across 62 rows, so if you separate the edge into two sections of equal measurement you could pick up 31 stitches in each of the sections. My suggested technique for how to pick up stitches is as follows: with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the first gap between the bars (in the same place between the stitches that you inserted your needle for Mattress stitch, ie, between the edge stitch and the next stitch in). Loop the yarn around the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this for all the stitches, skipping over some of the gaps when and if necessary to get the total number of stitches you need to pick up correct.
- along a cast-on edge: usually the basic rule to follow here is to pick up every stitch. So with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the middle of the stitch just below the cast-off edge/above the cast-on edge. Loop the yarn around the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this all the way along the edge, making sure that you pick up the correct number of stitches along the edge of each square. If the number of stitches is more or less than you have cast on (or cast off), then skip over stitches if there are too many, or pick up between stitches if you need more. As with the side/selvedge edges, if you do need to ease just make sure that they are spaced out evenly along each square. Also, remember that where the strips have been sewn together, one stitch from each edge of the squares are caught into the seam (apart from the first and last squares which have only one stitch caught in). But note that you are instructed to pick up one stitch on every seam between the squares.
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED BOTH SIDE EDGINGS YOU CAN SEW STRIP 4 INTO THE BLANKET TO CREATE ONE BLOCK. Let’s begin with a quick reminder about sewing your squares and strips together.
In this blanket all of the squares are facing in the same direction (in some of the previous Mystery Blankets the squares were turned upside down or were positioned on their side). So this makes it much easier to sew together. All you need to watch out for is the number of rows, which as you know does vary from square to square. This means that some easing in will be required.
These instructions are based on taking the needle under 2 ‘bars’ at a time as demonstrated in the tech vid for vertical mattress stitch. To ease in a row, you will need to take your needle under one less bar on the side you are easing the extra row into.
Before we make a start, these are some extra tips on easing in rows:
- Garter stitch rows have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so for every row of Garter stitch (which is two knit rows), ease these two rows into one stocking stitch row.
- Slip-stitch beads (and slip-stitch patterns) have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this across beaded rows, taking the needle under more of the beaded rows than the stocking stitch rows.
- Fairisle usually has a looser row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this across fairisle rows, taking the needle under more of the stocking stitch rows than the fairisle rows.
- For a square that has an all-over pattern, such as Square 10 Bracken, any easings need to be spread out evenly across the total number of rows (and not eased in all at one end or unevenly).
When there are two options on a square, I have given separate instructions for each option, so make sure that you check which one you need to follow for your choice of squares. If you have mixed your options then you might have to work out some of the easings yourself, but the piecing diagram on page 4 and the Chart for Stitch and Row Reference on page 5 will help you with this.
These are my guidelines and do not have to be followed if you prefer to use your own method and calculations.
SEW STRIP 3 (squares 15-21) TO STRIP 4 (squares 22-28)
Sew Square 15 (64 rows) to Square 22 (Option One) (65 rows): you need to ease 1 row of Square 22 (Option One) into Square 15.
Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option One) place a marker on Row 33.
Ease in 1 row across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 15 is matched to the marker on Square 22 (Option One).
Sew Square 15 (64 rows) to Square 22 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 10 rows of Square 22 (Option Two) into Square 15.
Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Ease in 10 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 15 is matched to the marker on Square 22 (Option Two).
Sew Square 16 (72 rows) to Square 23 (Option One) (59 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 16 into Square 23 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 16 is matched to the marker on Square 23 (Option One).
Sew Square 16 (72 rows) to Square 23 (Option Two) (63 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 16 into Square 23 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 9 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 16 is matched to the marker on Square 23 (Option Two).
Sew Square 17 (57 rows) to Square 24 (Option One) (77 rows): you need to ease 20 rows of Square 24 (Option One) into Square 17.
Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker on Row 29.
Along the edge of Square 10 place a marker on Row 39.
Ease in 20 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 17 is matched to the marker on Square 24 (Option One).
Sew Square 17 (57 rows) to Square 24 (Option Two) (86 rows): you need to ease 29 rows of Square 24 (Option Two) into Square 17.
Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker on Row 29.
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 43 and 44.
Ease in 29 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 17 is matched to the marker on Square 24 (Option Two).
Sew Square 18 (Option One) (77 rows) to Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows): you need to ease 18 rows of Square 18 (Option One) into Square 25 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 18 (Option One) place a marker on Row 39.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease in 18 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 18 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 25 (Option One).
Sew Square 18 (Option Two) (86 rows) to Square 25 (Option Two) (60 rows): you need to ease 26 rows of Square 18 (Option Two) into Square 25 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 18 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 43 and 44.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Ease in 26 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 18 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 25 (Option Two).
Sew Square 19 (61 rows) to Square 26 (Option One) (77 rows): you need to ease 16 rows of Square 26 (Option One) into Square 19.
Along the edge of Square 19 place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 26 (Option One) place a marker on Row 39.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 19 is matched to the marker on Square 26 (Option One).
Sew Square 19 (61 rows) to Square 26 (Option Two) (86 rows): you need to ease 25 rows of Square 26 (Option Two) into Square 19.
Along the edge of Square 19 place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 26 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 43 and 44.
Ease in 25 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 19 is matched to the marker on Square 26 (Option Two).
Sew Square 20 (72 rows) to Square 27 (Option One) (59 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 20 into Square 27 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 20 is matched to the marker on Square 27 (Option One).
Sew Square 20 (72 rows) to Square 27 (Option Two) (63 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 20 into Square 27 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 9 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 20 is matched to the marker on Square 27 (Option Two).
Sew Square 21 (63 rows) to Square 28 (Option One) (66 rows): you need to ease 3 rows of Square 28 (Option One) into Square 21.
Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Ease in 3 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 21 is matched to the marker on Square 28 (Option One).
Sew Square 21 (63 rows) to Square 28 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 28 (Option Two) into Square 21.
Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 21 is matched to the marker on Square 28 (Option Two).
SEW STRIP 4 (squares 22-28) TO STRIP 5 (squares 29-35)
Sew Square 22 (Option One) (65 rows) to Square 29 (63 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 22 (Option One) into Square 29.
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option One) place a marker on Row 33.
Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 22 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 29.
Sew Square 22 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 29 (63 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 22 (Option Two) into Square 29.
Along the edge of Square 22 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 22 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 29.
Sew Square 23 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 30 (72 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 30 into Square 23 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 23 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 30.
Sew Square 23 (Option Two) (63 rows) to Square 30 (72 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 30 into Square 23 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 9 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 23 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 30.
Sew Square 24 (Option One) (77 rows) to Square 31 (61 rows) you need to ease 16 rows of Square 24 (Option One) into Square 31.
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option One) place a marker on Row 39.
Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker on Row 31.
Ease in 16 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 24 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 31.
Sew Square 24 (Option Two) (86 rows) to Square 31 (61 rows) you need to ease 25 rows of Square 24 (Option Two) into Square 31.
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 43 and 44.
Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker on Row 31.
Ease in 25 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 24 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 31.
Sew Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 32 (Option One) (77 rows) you need to ease 18 rows of Square 32 (Option One) into Square 25 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option One) place a marker on Row 39.
Ease in 18 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 32 (Option One).
Sew Square 25 (Option Two) (60 rows) to Square 32 (Option Two) (86 rows) you need to ease 26 rows of Square 32 (Option Two) into Square 25 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 30 and 31.
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 43 and 44.
Ease in 26 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 25 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 32 (Option Two).
Sew Square 26 (Option One) (77 rows) to Square 33 (57 rows): you need to ease 20 rows of Square 26 (Option One) into Square 33.
Along the edge of Square 26 (Option One) place a marker on Row 39.
Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker on Row 29.
Ease in 20 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 26 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 33.
Sew Square 26 (Option Two) (86 rows) to Square 33 (57 rows): you need to ease 29 rows of Square 26 (Option Two) into Square 33.
Along the edge of Square 26 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 43 and 44.
Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker on Row 29.
Ease in 29 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 26 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 33.
Sew Square 27 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 34 (72 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 34 into Square 27 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 27 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 34.
Sew Square 27 (Option Two) (63 rows) to Square 34 (72 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 34 into Square 27 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 9 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 27 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 34.
Sew Square 28 (Option One) (66 rows) to Square 35 (64 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 28 (Option One) into Square 35.
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 33 and 34.
Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 28 (Option One) is matched to the marker on Square 35.
Sew Square 28 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 35 (64 rows): you need to ease 10 rows of Square 28 (Option Two) into Square 35.
Along the edge of Square 28 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker between Rows 32 and 33.
Ease in 10 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 28 (Option Two) is matched to the marker on Square 35.
IF YOU WANT TO LINE YOUR BLANKET THEN THIS ADVICE FROM JANE MCKEAG MIGHT COME IN USEFUL. And although I have never done this before myself, I think it would finish off the blanket beautifully – plus it would save having to sew in all those loose ends of yarn!
Each year I go back to Jane’s brilliant advice on how to line a blanket, (thank you Jane!), because her instructions are simple and straight forward and easy to follow. So, I am going to repeat the information she gave me some years ago in this blog to assist you if you decide to go down this route.
This is Jane’s advice:
“I’ve had several inquiries as to how to do the backing. So here’s some instructions on how I lined my 2016 Mystery Blanket, based on my quilting experience. It is the same process as preparing the multiple layers for quilting.
I used a good quilting flannel (by Moda Fabrics), which is 44 inches wide. I bought a 1 1/4 yard (45 inches), then machine washed and dried it. I turned an edge all around which I machine sewed. I then pinned it all around to the inner border edges, and hand sewed it in place using a blanket stitch (not necessary but somewhat decorative). I laid the whole thing flat, and used large safety pins at each intersection, pinning through both layers. I used two strands of yarn from the blanket and came up from the back and down to the back at each intersection (they don’t show on the front). Then each time I turned it over and double tied the strands with square knots and clipped them close. For the tying I worked from the outside in to make sure it would stay flat. It takes quite a bit of time to finish this way, but the blanket took quite a bit of time to knit! It’s totally worth the effort, in my opinion.”
WE’VE GOT SOME NEW KIT LAUNCHES COMING UP SOON WHICH YOU MIGHT WANT TO MAKE A NOTE OF IN YOUR DIARY (some of these dates have changed since they were last published).
- Friday 3rd November: launch of two brand new Cowl kits –the 2021 Hell Bay project, Fraggle Rock in its original colourway and last year’s Festive Mystery Box project, Snowflake will be available to purchase for the first time as kits. A second colourway of the Fraggle Rock Cowl will be available in a few weeks’ time.
- Friday 3rd November: our Festive Kits promotion begins, and you can grab yourself a kit at a discounted price for a limited period (offer excludes Festive Mystery Knit Boxes).
- Friday 10th November: Debbie’s Winter Wonderland sock range! Choose from three ready-to-wear designs to keep your feet cosy and warm while looking super stylish this winter!
- Friday 17h November: Festive Mystery Knit Boxes – the perfect idea for a gift or a treat for yourself. Debbie’s Mystery Box includes ten ‘mystery’ gifts including a brand-new festive knitting kit.
OUR REGULAR MEETINGS AT YARN LOFT IN NOTTINGHAM HAVE BEEN GREAT FUN, and our final meeting for the year is on Wednesday 1st November. I will be bringing along to the meeting my completed Mystery Blanket and Mystery Cushion. I can’t wait to see some of you there!
After the November meeting we are taking a break until the new year, then our meetings will resume from February. If you are interested in joining us for a couple of hours in the new year at Doreen’s gorgeous yarn shop, then drop me an email and I will send you a reminder a few days before each of the meetings: debbie@debbieabrahams.com
Yarn Loft is at 118 Hucknall Road, Carrington, Nottingham, tel number 07825 702433, website: www.yarnloft.co.uk. To cover the costs of hosting the meeting there is a small sub to pay (£3.00), which can be paid to Doreen on the day. Doors open from 4-6pm and all ‘mystery’ knitters are welcome!
I WILL BE CREATING A MEMBER’S GALLERY BLOG IN JANUARY TO CELEBRATE ALL THE BRILLIANT WORK THAT’S BEEN DONE THIS YEAR! So please send in photos of your completed 2023 Mystery Blankets and Cushions, and any other Debbie Abrahams projects you have knitted this year, together with a brief description, and I will include them. It’s time to show off all your hard work and be proud of your achievements! Please send all photos and stories to debbie@debbieabrahams.com
THE FURRY FRIENDS GALLERY WILL BE LIVE SOON! It’s been great fun seeing all your furry friends taking an interest in your ‘mystery’ knits! Thank you to everyone who has emailed me with their pictures and stories. I will be launching this very special gallery towards the end of November, so do pop back in a few weeks time to see all the wonderful cats and dogs who have helped (and hindered!) your knitting during the past ten months!
IF YOU DON’T FOLLOW US ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS THEN PLEASE COME AND JOIN US, and enjoy the messages and photos that are shared between myself and the members:
Instagram: debbieabrahams_knitting
Pinterest: debbieabrahams@debbieabrahamsk
Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters
Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Handknits
Ravelry: Debbie Abrahams Handknits
AND FINALLY, IT’S TIME TO ANNOUNCE THE WINNER OF THE TENTH AND FINAL 2023 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB PRIZE DRAW!!! Each month a member is picked at random to win a Debbie Abrahams prize. So it is worth reading right the way to the end of each blog to see if you are that lucky member!
PRIZE DRAW TEN (NOVEMBER): this month’s winner is member 445, Carrie Hatler from Coon Rapids, Minnesota in the USA. Well done Carrie! Please choose a prize from the following selection:
- Your choice of one of Debbie’s knitting kits up to the value of £28.00 (excluding shipping) (take a look at them in our online shop).
- Five packs of Debbie Abrahams Beads (size 8/0 or 6/0) from the selection on http://www.debbieabrahamsbeads.co.uk
- A £25 voucher (or £25 refund) for a Debbie Abrahams Mystery Club membership: 2024 Mystery Blanket Club or 2024 Mystery Cushion Club.
- A Mystery bag of five gifts!
We will notify Carrie to let her know the good news!
AND JUST IN CASE YOU WERE A WINNER THIS YEAR BUT HAVE NOT CLAIMED YOUR PRIZE, here is the list of all the winners from months 1-9. If your name is on the list and you haven’t claimed your prize then email Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com and she will get it sorted for you:
- February: Carol Clark (member 175, UK)
- March: Katharine Henson (member 78, UK)
- April: Genevieve Le Visage (member 359, FRANCE)
- May: Michelle Lally (member 192, UK)
- June: Catherine Slater (member 143, UK)
- July: Gini Vanness (member 511, USA)
- August: Natalie Keane (member 250, UK)
- September: Christine Planchak (member 110, UK)
- October: Patricia Sorrentino (member 554, USA)
So it’s time to wrap up this year’s Mystery Blanket with a final farewell. I always feel mixed emotions at the end of my KAL projects. I am thrilled to have completed the project after ten months of intensive knitting, but I will miss hearing about and seeing all the progress you are making with your own blankets. What I really love about this KAL are all the fabulous communities – both online and face-to-face – which the Mystery Blanket has generated. The monthly meetings at Yarn loft have been great fun, and when I read the comments and posts in the social media groups and see how much support there is out there and how generous you are with your tips and advice, it is truly inspirational! So thank you for being such fabulous members and for sticking with me right through to the end of the project. It’s the end of the 2023 Mystery Blanket, but a brand new knitting adventure will begin next year with a whole new set of challenges to keep you super busy, and I just can’t wait for it to start! So I wish you a super end to the year, enjoy your final set of squares and I look forward to seeing you in 2024! Take care everyone, Debbie, x
