Mystery Blanket Club 2026: post 9, October

October 4, 2026 Debbie Abrahams

WELCOME TO THE NINTH AND PENULTIMATE BLOG FOR THE 2026 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB! We are just one more instalment away from the final reveal next month in which the last few pieces of the 2026 puzzle will be released. In the November blog you'll be able to listen in to me chatting about the inspiration for the project, with pics and stories about my design process. So if you have not guessed the theme yet, there's not long to go until you will find out what the past ten months have all been about.

I begin with the sad news of the death of a fellow knitwear designer and dear friend, Carol Meldrum who passed away in August after a incredibly brave battle with a terminal illness. My friendship with Carol goes back many years to when we were both Rowan Consultants working in John Lewis stores. Carol was in Glasgow, and I was in Nottingham, and although our paths only crossed a few times at meetings and workshops, whenever we did meet up Carol was always super bubbly, full of ideas and bursting with positivity. She was always on the go whether she was running a marathon, packing her bags for a Stitchtopia workshop or going to a gig with her mates.

She was one of the most adventurous knitwear designers I have ever known, never afraid to try something new, mixing crochet with knitting and pushing the boundaries of traditional knitting and crochet beyond anything that I could ever hope to achieve, let alone think of. I will always remember her as vibrant, full of fun and incredibly kind person who had time for everyone. The world of wool has lost a beautiful and talented designer, and I will miss her dearly, rest in peace my friend.

Carol's husband Andy is determined to raise as much money as he can for all the various charities that helped Carol and her family through her courageous battle with cancer: Visibility Scotland, Beatson Cancer Charity, Maggie's, Marie Curie and the Prince & Princess of Wales Hospice. If you can spare something and donate, then your support would be very much appreciated:

Please click here to donate via GiveWheel.

There are six squares to knit in the October instalment, and as all of them are repeats or variations of previous squares you have knitted, it should be a relatively easy and stress-free month. But if you need any guidance then my tech vids are always available to help you. This is the list of what we have in our Tutorials to assist you with various knitting techniques:

THE OCTOBER PRINTED PATTERNS HAVE BEEN POSTED, so if you opted for them they will be arriving very soon.

The overseas were posted on the 23rd September by standard Airmail, and the UK were posted shortly after this on the 29th by First Class Royal Mail. All members will find the digital file in their Debbie Abrahams account on our website, so you can download it from there at your own leisure.

I HAVE HAD A FEW EMAILS RECENTLY FROM MEMBERS WHO ARE PANICKING THAT THEY ARE FALLING BEHIND WITH THE MONTHLY SQUARES, to which I would say, please don't panic. Despite the patterns being released each month, you can work at your own pace. There is no deadline for completing each instalment, and no prize for who completes them all first. So I would advise that you take your time, don't worry if you fall behind, and enjoy every stitch you knit and every bead you place. And at the end of it, whenever that may be, you will have a beautiful blanket that you will be very proud of.

SALES OF OUR 2027 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB HAVE EXCEEDED OUR EXPECTATIONS, with many people taking advantage of our Early Bird special offer. This has now expired, but if you have not yet signed up, there is still time to do so. We have around seventy-five memberships left until we sell out, and when all of them are sold the club will be closed.

I am super excited to announce the winners of our Early Bird promotion, with ten lucky members winning these fabulous prizes!

1st Prize, Thea Van Liempd (member 134): 2027 Mystery Blanket Club membership - a full refund of the amount you paid for your membership package
2nd Prize, Sian Bennett (member 75): Festive Mystery Knit Box (with a value of over £80)
3rd Prize, Mary Bignell (member 77): Mother's Day Knit Box (with a value of over £60)
4th Prize, Tricia Badley (member 96): set of 10 printed patterns for MBC27 - if already purchased, we will refund what you paid)
5th & 6th Prizes, Marion Probert (member 91) and Susan Bailey (member 10): knitting kit from the selection on our website (up to the value of £50)
7th and 8th Prizes, Jackie Huddleston (member 152) and Kathryn McClurg (member 443): four packs of Debbie Abrahams beads in your own choice of colours and sizes
9th and 10th Prizes, Nancy Burghes (member 115) and Rosemary Williamson (member 47): set of three Winter Wonderland ready-made socks.

Well done to all the winners. I will contact you individually to let you know the good news and how you can claim your prize.

So if you have not signed up, this is a reminder of what I have in store for 2027...are you tempted?!?

I made the decision to reveal the theme of the blanket as it was a special twentieth anniversary celebration, and I am so excited to tell you that the theme is...CHRISTMAS!

You can look forward to a very seasonal festive blanket, knitted in the traditional colours of red, green, indigo and white with vibrant splashes of luscious magenta and deep purple. And there will be lots of beads in it too, in super sparkly festive colours, including some exclusive and very special gold and silver plated beads to add a touch of luxury to this very special blanket design.

There is still a big element of 'mystery' as the forty-nine squares will remain a secret until they are revealed in the ten monthly instalments. There is just a glimpse though of what to expect if you take a look at the images on our product page...is that Rudolph the Reindeer I can see?!?

If Christmas is not something you celebrate, then you can still participate and opt for the non-pictorial squares (Option Two) instead which replace the festive motifs with striped, beaded and textured patterns.

As with every Mystery Blanket Club, memberships are limited, so it is advisable to sign up sooner rather than later to avoid disappointment. The club begins February 2027 and runs until November.

If you opt to purchase the knitting kit, you will receive everything you need to knit the whole blanket delivered directly to your doorstep. And with patterns for five to six squares sent to you over a ten-month period, the Mystery Blanket provides you with enough knitting for a whole year!

There will be a choice of two options for the trickier squares (fairisle), enabling knitters of all abilities to participate in this unique knitting experience.

Monthly tech vids in a dedicated blog give you all the help and support you need as you work your way through the forty-nine squares. It's a great way to learn new knitting skills!

What does my membership with a kit include? Each member receives ten sets of emailed patterns and two parcels containing over thirty-five balls of premium quality yarn and embellishments to knit and assemble a blanket. The kit will be posted in two halves with the first one delivered in February, followed by the second one in May.

You can add to your membership ten sets of printed patterns for an additional cost.

Due to recent changes to EU customs rules and regulations, if you live in the EU you won't be able to purchase the membership with knitting kit unless you can provide a non-EU shipping address from which you can collect your parcels.

A Download pattern-only option is available with no knitting kit. We are offering the option of ten sets of patterns a monthly downloads enabling you to use your own yarn and beads to knit the blanket. The list of yarns and beads for the first parcel will be released in January before the club begins. This is a great option for knitters in the EU who can't purchase the knitting kit, but can still sign up and be part of the club.

You don't have to pay for your membership in one go. You can choose to spread your payments over a timescale that suits you and your finances. Simply contact Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com and she will set up a personalised payment plan outside of our online shop directly with you. If you choose this option you can still take advantage of all the Early Bird benefits.

To find out more about the 2027 Mystery Blanket Club, visit the product page on our website, and get yourself signed up today!

I hope you decide to join me on this super sparkly, festive knitting adventure! I just can't wait for it to begin!

IF YOU FANCY GETTING AWAY FOR A SHORT BREAK THEN WHY NOT TREAT YOURSELF TO A FABULOUS STITCHTOPIA HOLIDAY! I am thrilled to have been asked to tutor two knitting holidays next year, and I would love you to hop on board with me. There are limited places left on each, but if you're quick you can still book on...

KNITTING IN THE WEST OF IRELAND, 27TH JUNE - 2ND JULY 2027: explore the beautiful scenery and traditional crafts of the West coast of Ireland, with all excursions and evening meals included.

How wonderful it will be to visit Galway and spend time browsing Ireland's largest yarn store, Knitwits, learn traditional knitting skills at a whole day out at one of Arans' smallest islands called Innis Oirr, and a visit to the Sheep & Wool Centre in Connemara - all this plus a specially designed project by me with dedicated workshops to learn new knitting techniques. I enjoyed a fabulous tour of the Ring of Kerry last year which was truly one of my most favourite Stitchtopia holidays ever. And this one looks to be just as good. I just can't wait!

WEST YORKSHIRE KNITTING RETREAT, 11TH OCTOBER - 15TH OCTOBER 2027: enrich your knowledge of British textiles with this Yorkshire break with all trips and evening meals included.

This wonderful holiday includes a trip to the Knitting & Crochet Guild to see the incredible work they do to preserve and promote knitting and crochet, and a visit to the Colne Valley Museum which is dedicated to preserving handloom weaving where we will see live demonstrations and learn all about the history of this craft.

With a project designed by me especially for the tour and plenty of workshop time too, it's a chance to relax with like-minded people and enjoy a truly inspirational craft break.

You can find out more and make your booking on the Stitchtopia website: https://www.stitchtopia.co.uk/

I hope you decide to join me!

IF YOU FANCY ATTENDING A ONE-DAY BEAD AND LACE WORKSHOP AT BLACK SHEEP WOOLS ON FRIDAY 9TH OCTOBER, there are just a few places left. Each participant will be given a kit to knit up a small accessory called the Tuscan Purse. It is based on the Tuscan Cushion that I designed for my trip to The Watermill in Italy earlier on this year. You will learn to master the techniques of lace knitting with beads, as well as reading lace symbols from a chart.

It's a really super day out in a totally amazing yarn store, with the opportunity too to browse and stash up on all your crafty bits and pieces at 10% discount. If you've not been to Black Sheep Wools before, this is your chance to come and join me there if you can!

You can book onto the workshop directly by contacting Black Sheep Wools:

https://www.blacksheepwools.com/products/lace-and-bead-knitting-workshop-with-debbie-abrahams-friday-9th-october-2026?_pos=1&_sid=c6ae5390e&_ss=r

WITH JUST ONE MORE MONTH TO GO AFTER THIS, HAVE YOU GUESSED THE TITLE OF THE MYSTERY BLANKET? In the word puzzle below, the name is almost revealed in it's entirety, but can you guess the last letter?

S_ U L / _ F / M _ R _ C C _

It's not too late to send in your guess, so if you've got an idea of what it might be, please send your guess directly to me at debbie@debbieabrahams.com and I will let you know if you are correct. Good luck!

THERE ARE SIX SQUARES TO KNIT THIS MONTH, WITH TWO OPTIONS TO CHOOSE:

Square 7: Fes 2 (Option One) - intarsia pattern with embroidery and a sewn-on button detail:

Square 7: Fes 2 (Option Two) - three-colour slip-stitch pattern:

Square 14: Opulent (Option One) - fairisle pattern with hooked-in beads:

Square 14: Opulent 2 (Option Two) - striped pattern with textured stitches and slip-stitch beads:

Square 32: Rabat 3 (Option One) - cable and beads and an intarsia section:

Square 32: Rabat 3 (Option Two) - cable and beads and a three-colour slip-stitch pattern:

Square 33: Bahia 2 - striped pattern with garter stitch and hooked-in beads (same for both options):

Square 34: Embossed 2 - cable pattern with twisted stitches (same for both options):

Square 35: Majorelle - slip-stitch beaded pattern (same for both options):

As we approach the end of the project, there are more and more repeats of squares you have knitted previously. Some are identical and others are variations. All of the squares in this month's instalment have been knitted before, so you should find them fairly straightforward to do.

Don't forget to check out the Pattern notes and tips for each square which are to the right of the main image on the first pattern page. This advice gives you important information about the square and things to watch out for. Also take note of the description of the square under the title which tells you what the stitch structure is.

SQUARE 7, FES 2 (OPTION ONE): this is the same as Square 43 from mail-out 4 and it's the third corner square in the blanket.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I would recommend that you knit the same option as you chose for Squares 1 and 43 so that the design is balanced.

If you can remember back to the previous versions of these squares then you know that it involves many small balls of yarn. It is knitted using the intarsia technique which is a single thickness fabric, and therefore each individual area of colour is knitted with a separate length or ball of yarn. There is a tech vid available which shows the basics of intarsia knitting, so it might be worth a look if you need a reminder of the technique.

So before you begin it is wise to take a look at the chart on page 7 and work out how many balls you need to wind off. I started with four balls of Rich Red, four balls of Saffron, three of Grass and two of Sulfur. Remember that one ball of a colour when finished with may be used further up on the chart if repeated again. So you don't need to wind off yarn for every single area of colour.

If picking up stitches you will need to pick them up in the colour sequence stated on page 7, and this will be the first row of the chart completed. Alternatively you can cast it on as a separate square and join it to Square 6 when it is completed.

When the square is completed and blocked and pressed, the embroidery needs to be added. It is shown on the chart, but it is worth taking a look at the image on page 6 as well.

I know this square caused a lot of stress for some of you, but hopefully this is third time lucky and you will feel much more confident about knitting it this time. I always find it motivating to keep track of the rows with a piece of washi tape, and as I move it up the chart and progress through the rows and see more and more of it completed, it becomes very satisfying. So maybe you could try that too!

SQUARE 7, FES 2 (OPTION TWO): this is the same as Square 43 from mail-out 4 and it's the third corner square in the blanket, but this one is the easier option to knit.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I would recommend that you knit the same option as you chose for Squares 1 and 43 so that the design is balanced.

I've heard through the grapevine that this is quite a popular square, so I imagine that a lot of the members have opted for this one over Option One. It's a nice easy knit, which is very satisfying as once the three yarns are joined in they simply rotate round every third row, with Saffron swapped for Sulfur for a brief interlude in the centre band. So once you get into it you can merrily knit away and watch the pattern grow from your needles.

However, that's not to say that you don't have to keep your wits about you. Although it is only a 4-row pattern repeat, you need to keep your eye on which row you are on. On all right-side rows there is movement of the yarn back and forth between the needles. But on all wrong-side rows stitches are slipped and purled with no movement of the yarn between the needles. If you can remember this as you knit it, then you should find it an easy way to complete.

SQUARE 14, OPULENT (OPTION ONE): this is the same as Square 36 from mail-out 2, which was first knitted way back in March.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I would recommend that you knit the same option as you chose for Square 36 to keep the design balanced.

As with Fes, you are instructed to pick up stitches in a colour sequence, which completes Row 1 of the chart. It's a bit of a lengthy instruction, so it might help to have this read out to you so that you can focus on the stitches.

The pattern is worked partially from charts and from worded instructions, so you will be flitting between the two. There are two charts, which you can see on page 11. The bands of fairisle are separated by a row of Indigo garter stitch (two knit rows). For this you will need to change to a smaller needle which might seem frustrating, but it is important to do this to maintain the same tension throughout the whole square.

Yellow and Indigo beads are hooked in, which you can see on Row 6 on both charts. This is a wrong side row, but hooking them in is just as easy as on a right side row - it's exactly the same technique but you are purling the stitch rather than knitting it. I think you've all had plenty of practice of hooking in beads on wrong side rows in this blanket, so no extra advice is needed here!

SQUARE 14, OPULENT 2 (OPTION TWO): this is the same as Square 48 from mail-out 8, hence it's Opulent 2, so different to Square 36, Option Two.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I would recommend that you knit the same option as you chose for Square 48 so that the design is balanced.

This square is in a set of four, with two variations. All of yarn colours are the same in both, but the bead colours are different. Squares 2 and 36 have Yellow beads, and this Square and 48 have Tangerine beads.

If you knitted this option before then you will be familiar with the pattern. There are two large blocks of instructions for Rows 3 and 4 which may look a bit daunting, but they are actually easier to follow than what you might think - they are just very wordy.

There are frequent changes of needle size to keep the tension the same when the stitch structures change, so make sure you make these changes otherwise you could have some wobbly sections in your otherwise neat and tidy Opulent 2 square!

SQUARE 32, RABAT 3 (OPTION ONE): this is the third section of the four centre panel squares which surround Square 25, and is the same colourway as Square 18.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I would recommend that you knit the same option as you chose for Square 18 so that the design is balanced.

When the first Rabat square was released, I got a wave of emails about the cable and lace section of this square, with many of the members struggling with the lace pattern on rows 1 and 3. The key thing here is to keep the yarn held at the front as you 'slip 1 knitwise K1 psso'. When you hold the yarn at the front and then knit, it creates a yarn over, so an increase. And this balances out the psso (pass slipped stitch over). So at the end of these rows you will have the same number of stitches - no more or no less.

I am confident that because this is the third time this pattern has been knitted, you have overcome any struggles you may have been having with this square. But if you have any queries, just get directly in touch with me and I will do best to help you.

When this square is completed it is sewn to Square 31 on its side, with the left selvedge (side) edge sewn to the cast-off edge of Square 31. It is essential that is it sewn on the correct way round, so if you are unsure, take a look at the Piecing Diagram on page 4.

SQUARE 32, RABAT 3 (OPTION TWO): this is the third section of the four centre panel squares which surround Square 25, and is the same colourway as Square 18.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I would recommend that you knit the same option as you chose for Square 18 so that the design is balanced.

The same comments I made above about the cable and bead section apply to this square. So if you struggled with it previously, read my notes above which should guide you through those two tricky rows.

The upper section of this square is a three-colour slip-stitch pattern, which is the same as Square 7 Option Two which I talked about earlier on in this blog. Although it is only a 4-row pattern repeat, you need to keep your eye on which row you are on. On all right-side rows there is movement of the yarn back and forth between the needles. But on all wrong-side rows stitches are slipped and purled with no movement of the yarn between the needles.

SQUARE 33, BAHIA 2: this is the same as Square 17 which you knitted several months ago in May.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I really enjoyed knitting this square because it's a simple stripe pattern where you are always at the correct end of the work to pick up the next yarn you need, so no transferring of stitches across to the other needle is needed - hurray!

It begins by picking up stitches along the right selvedge edge of the square below, which is what you did when you knitted Square 19. When I picked up the stitches for this square I put a half way marker along the edge of Square 18 and made sure that when I reached it I had half of the number of stitches required. I remember that I had to go back and forth a bit to get it right, so don't be put off if this happens to you. It's quote common for some tweaking to be done, but if you get it right first time, well done to you!

There are frequent changes of needle size which are necessary to maintain the same tension between the different stitch structures. So do your best to remember to change needles when instructed or you might find that you have some very wobbly looking garter stitch stripes in your Bahia 2 square!

SQUARE 34, EMBOSSED 2: this is the same as Square 16 and the last time you will knit this cable pattern in the blanket.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

I have just noticed that the cable chart is completely missing from this mail-out. The worded instructions are on page 25, which should be followed by the chart - mass apologies for that. So if you want to work from the chart you will need to go back to the April mail out. It is exactly the same chart, so after working the initial pick up/cast-on row and then the two rows after that on page 25, you will have to seek out Mail Out 3 and continue to work from there.

In this cable pattern all of the stitches are cabled to the back (c7b) which twists the stitches to the right. If you can't recall how the cables are knitted then consult the Abbreviations list on page 31.

Some of the cabled stitches are twisted and some are knitted normally, so keep your eye on the instructions for this. It is also worth looking frequently at the image on page 24, or even better, having Square 16 next to you so that you can make sure you are knitting it correctly.

With so much going on in this square it is easy to miss knitting a cable, so after each cable row I would suggest that you check your knitting before you start working the next row. There is nothing more frustrating than having to take several rows back when you notice a cable has been missed (can you guess that I have personal experience of this!), so a quick check could save you a lot of time and energy.

SQUARE 35, MAJORELLE: this was one of the very first squares you knitted way back in February, and was the first in the 'Majorelle' series.

Tech vids to help you with this square:

There is a lot of bead threading to do for this square, so that's why I split it into two sections. The first set of bead threading is on page 26 and gives you enough beads to knit chart rows 1-34. After this you will need to break the yarn and thread on more beads for chart rows 35-64.

I don't think that much more needs to be said about this square as you are all master bead-knitters now! So sit back and enjoy this one before you make a start on the next step in this process...sewing together the strips.

WITH ANOTHER THREE STRIPS COMPLETED AFTER THIS INSTALMENT, YOU COULD GET AHEAD AND SEW THEM TOGETHER NOW. If you have knitted your squares separately then you will need to join these together first to create strips 1, 2 and 5 (these are Squares 1-7, 8-14 and 29-35). If you need some guidance with this, check out the tech vid in Tutorials for Horizontal mattress stitch which demonstrates this technique.

In last month's blog I gave lots of tips for sewing together different stitch structures, so my advice would be to hop back to the September blog if you need any reminders. If not, then off we go!

SEW STRIP 1 (squares 1-7) TO STRIP 2 (squares 8-14)

Sew Square 1 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 8 (Option One) (53 rows): you need to ease 6 rows of Square 1 (Option One) into Square 8 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 1 place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 8 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Ease in 6 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 1 is matched to the marker on Square 8.

Sew Square 1 (Option Two) (84 rows) to Square 8 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 10 rows of Square 1 (Option Two) into Square 8 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 1 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 42 and 43.

Along the edge of Square 8 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Ease in 10 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 1 is matched to the marker on Square 8.

There are also these options for sewing Square 1 to Square 8:

Sew Square 1 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 8 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 8 (Option Two) into Square 1 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 1 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 8 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Ease in 15 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 1 is matched to the marker on Square 8.

Sew Square 1 (Option Two) (84 rows) to Square 8 (Option One) (53 rows): you need to ease 31 rows of Square 1 (Option Two) into Square 8 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 1 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 42 and 43.

Along the edge of Square 8 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Ease in 31 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 1 is matched to the marker on Square 8.

Sew Square 2 (Option One) (53 rows) to Square 9 (68 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 9 into Square 2 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 2 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Along the edge of Square 9 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Ease in 15 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 2 is matched to the marker on Square 9.

Sew Square 2 (Option Two) (70 rows) to Square 9 (68 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 2 (Option Two) into Square 9.

Along the edge of Square 2 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Along the edge of Square 9 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 2 is matched to the marker on Square 9.

Sew Square 3 (65 rows) to Square 10 (65 rows): there are no rows to be eased in.

Along the edge of Square 3 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 10 place a marker on Row 33.

Sew together the two squares, making sure that the marker on Square 3 is matched to the marker on Square 10.

Sew Square 4 (72 rows) to Square 11 (Option One) (48 rows): you need to ease 24 rows of Square 4 into Square 11 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 4 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.

Along the edge of Square 11 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.

Ease in 24 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 4 is matched to the marker on Square 11.

Sew Square 4 (72 rows) to Square 11 (Option Two) (59 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 4 into Square 11 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 4 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.

Along the edge of Square 11 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.

Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 4 is matched to the marker on Square 11.

Sew Square 5 (65 rows) to Square 12 (65 rows): there are no rows to be eased in.

Along the edge of Square 5 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 12 place a marker on Row 33.

Make sure that the marker on Square 5 is matched to the marker on Square 12.

Sew Square 6 (Option One) (53 rows) to Square 13 (68 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 13 into Square 6 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 6 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Along the edge of Square 13 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Ease in 15 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 6 is matched to the marker on Square 13.

Sew Square 6 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 13 (68 rows): you need to ease 6 rows of Square 6 (Option Two) into Square 13.

Along the edge of Square 6 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Along the edge of Square 13 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Ease in 6 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 6 is matched to the marker on Square 13.

Sew Square 7 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 14 (Option One) (53 rows): you need to ease 6 rows of Square 7 (Option One) into Square 14 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 7 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 14 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Ease in 6 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 7 is matched to the marker on Square 14.

Sew Square 7 (Option Two) (84 rows) to Square 14 (Option Two) (70 rows): you need to ease 14 rows of Square 7 (Option Two) into Square 14 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 7 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 42 and 43.

Along the edge of Square 14 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Ease in 14 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 7 is matched to the marker on Square 14.

There are also these options for sewing Square 7 to Square 14:

Sew Square 7 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 14 (Option Two) (70 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 14 (Option Two) into Square 7 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 7 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 14 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 7 is matched to the marker on Square 14.

Sew Square 7 (Option Two) (84 rows) to Square 14 (Option One) (53 rows): you need to ease 31 rows of Square 7 (Option Two) into Square 14 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 7 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 42 and 43.

Along the edge of Square 14 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Ease in 31 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 7 is matched to the marker on Square 14.

SEW STRIP 2 (squares 8-14) TO STRIP 3 (squares 15-21)

Sew Square 8 (Option One) (53 rows) to Square 15 (65 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 15 into Square 8 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 8 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker on Row 33.

Ease in 12 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 8 is matched to the marker on Square 15.

Sew Square 8 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 15 (65 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 8 (Option Two) into Square 15.

Along the edge of Square 8 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker on Row 33.

Ease in 9 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 8 is matched to the marker on Square 15.

Sew Square 9 (68 rows) to Square 16 (61 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 9 into Square 16.

Along the edge of Square 9 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker on Row 31.

Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 9 is matched to the marker on Square 16.

Sew Square 10 (65 rows) to Square 17 (70 rows): you need to ease 5 rows of Square 17 into Square 10.

Along the edge of Square 10 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Ease in 5 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 10 is matched to the marker on Square 17.

Sew Square 11 (Option One) (48 rows) to Square 18 (Option One) (63 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 18 (Option One) into Square 11 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 11 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.

Along the edge of Square 18 (Option One) place a marker on Row 32.

Ease in 15 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 11 is matched to the marker on Square 18.

Sew Square 11 (Option Two) (59 rows) to Square 18 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 18 (Option Two) into Square 11 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 11 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 18 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Ease in 15 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 11 is matched to the marker on Square 18.

There are also these options for sewing Square 11 to Square 18:

Sew Square 11 (Option One) (48 rows) to Square 18 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 26 rows of Square 18 (Option Two) into Square 11 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 11 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.

Along the edge of Square 18 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Ease in 26 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 11 is matched to the marker on Square 18.

Sew Square 11 (Option Two) (59 rows) to Square 18 (Option One) (48 rows): you need to ease 11 rows of Square 11 (Option Two) into Square 18 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 11 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.

Along the edge of Square 18 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.

Ease in 11 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 11 is matched to the marker on Square 18.

Sew Square 12 (65 rows) to Square 19 (70 rows): you need to ease 5 rows of Square 19 into Square 12.

Along the edge of Square 12 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 19 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Ease in 5 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 12 is matched to the marker on Square 19.

Sew Square 13 (68 rows) to Square 20 (61 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 13 into Square 20.

Along the edge of Square 13 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker on Row 31.

Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 13 is matched to the marker on Square 20.

Sew Square 14 (Option One) (53 rows) to Square 21 (65 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 21 into Square 14 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 14 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on Row 33.

Ease in 12 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 14 is matched to the marker on Square 21.

Sew Square 14 (Option Two) (70 rows) to Square 21 (65 rows): you need to ease 5 rows of Square 14 (Option Two) into Square 21.

Along the edge of Square 14 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on Row 33.

Ease in 5 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 14 is matched to the marker on Square 21.

SEW STRIP 5 (squares 29-35) TO STRIP 6 (squares 36-42)

Sew Square 29 (65 rows) to Square 36 (Option One) (53 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 29 into Square 36 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 36 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Ease in 12 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 29 is matched to the marker on Square 36.

Sew Square 29 (65 rows) to Square 36 (Option Two) (70 rows): you need to ease 5 rows of Square 36 (Option Two) into Square 29.

Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 36 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Ease in 5 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 29 is matched to the marker on Square 36.

Sew Square 30 (61 rows) to Square 37 (68 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 37 into Square 30.

Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker on Row 31.

Along the edge of Square 37 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 30 is matched to the marker on Square 37.

Sew Square 31 (70 rows) to Square 38 (65 rows): you need to ease 5 rows of Square 31 into Square 38.

Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Along the edge of Square 38 place a marker on Row 33.

Ease in 5 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 31 is matched to the marker on Square 38.

Sew Square 32 (Option One) (63 rows) to Square 39 (Option One) (48 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 32 (Option One) into Square 39 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 32 (Option One) place a marker on Row 32.

Along the edge of Square 39 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.

Ease in 15 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 32 is matched to the marker on Square 39.

Sew Square 32 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 39 (Option Two) (59 rows): you need to ease 15 rows of Square 32 (Option Two) into Square 39 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 32 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Along the edge of Square 39 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.

Ease in 15 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 32 is matched to the marker on Square 39.

There are also these options for sewing Square 32 to Square 39:

Sew Square 32 (Option One) (63 rows) to Square 39 (Option Two) (59 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 32 (Option One) into Square 39 (Option Two).

Along the edge of Square 32 (Option One) place a marker on Row 32.

Along the edge of Square 39 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.

Ease in 4 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 32 is matched to the marker on Square 39.

Sew Square 32 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 39 (Option One) (48 rows): you need to ease 26 rows of Square 32 (Option Two) into Square 39 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 32 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Along the edge of Square 39 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.

Ease in 26 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 32 is matched to the marker on Square 39.

Sew Square 33 (70 rows) to Square 40 (65 rows): you need to ease 5 rows of Square 33 into Square 40.

Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.

Along the edge of Square 40 place a marker on Row 33.

Ease in 5 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 33 is matched to the marker on Square 40.

Sew Square 34 (61 rows) to Square 41 (68 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 41 into Square 34.

Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker on Row 31.

Along the edge of Square 41 place a marker between Rows 34 and 35.

Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 34 is matched to the marker on Square 41.

Sew Square 35 (65 rows) to Square 42 (Option One) (53 rows): you need to ease 12 rows of Square 35 into Square 42 (Option One).

Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 42 (Option One) place a marker on Row 27.

Ease in 12 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 35 is matched to the marker on Square 42.

Sew Square 35 (65 rows) to Square 42 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 9 rows of Square 42 (Option Two) into Square 35.

Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker on Row 33.

Along the edge of Square 42 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.

Ease in 9 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 35 is matched to the marker on Square 42.

IF YOU HAVEN'T JOINED ANY OF OUR SOCIAL MEDIA GROUPS, THEN GET YOURSELF ON BOARD FOR SOME SUPER FRIENDLY BLANKET BANTER!

You never need to feel that you are on your own when you are part of a Debbie Abrahams Mystery Blanket Club. With social media at our fingertips, we can easily make connections across the world and stay in touch with each other. So if you are not following us on these various different platforms, why not join today!

Ravelry: this social media platform is super friendly and free to join. You will find on there a group for the Mystery Blanket, with many of the members very willing to give help and advice if you have a question: Debbie Abrahams Handknits.
Facebook: there are two groups on Facebook, but the one to visit for Mystery Blanket help and advice is: Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters. The members here on this platform are also very happy to help each other and share thoughts and comments about the project, so it's well worth joining, and it's free to join too.

These are our other social media platforms. Please follow us on as many as you can to make our Debbie Abrahams world online even bigger and better!

Instagram: debbieabrahams_knitting
Pinterest: debbieabrahams@debbieabrahamsk
Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Handknits

AND FINALLY, I AM THRILLED TO ANNOUNCE THE WINNER OF THE NINTH AND PENULTIMATE 2026 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB FREE PRIZE DRAW! Each month a member is picked at random to win a Debbie Abrahams prize. So it is worth reading my blog from beginning to end every month to check whether you are a winner!

PRIZE DRAW NINE (OCTOBER): this months' winner is Member 100, Malvina Taylor from Banff in Scotland, UK. Well done Malvina! Please choose a prize from the following selection and email me with your choice: debbie@debbieabrahams.com.

Your choice of one of Debbie's knitting kits from our online shop up to the value of £30 (excluding shipping);
Your choice of six packs of Debbie Abrahams Beads (size 6 and/or size 8) from the selection in our online shop;
£30 voucher towards a Debbie Abrahams Club (MBC27 or TBBC26);
A Mystery bag of five gifts.

So here we are with just one more instalment of this year's Mystery Blanket to go before the whole design is revealed. Next month you will get the patterns for the last four squares including Square 25 - any ideas as to what that could be?!? There will also be the edgings to knit which will complete your 2026 blanket. So there's still some surprises to look forward to!

With Christmas only a few months away, I am busy planning my Mystery Festive Boxes and Christmas promotions, so keep an eye on your inbox for all of the latest info about that. And if you are reading this thinking, 'why didn't I sign up to MBC27?!?', it is not too late as there are a limited number of memberships left. So you can still jump on board my super sparkly Christmassy MBC if you decide you want to join another enthralling knitting adventure in 2027!