Mystery Blanket Club 2026: post 10, November - the final instalment!
Debbie AbrahamsHELLO AND WELCOME TO THE FINAL INSTALMENT OF THE 2026 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB! We are finally here at the end of the project with the final four squares and the edging revealed, as well, of course, the title of the blanket. It's been a colourful ride this year, and I hope you've enjoyed the journey!
So let's start with my intro vid, it's the final one from me for this project in which I reveal the title and share with you the inspiration for the design. So here goes, settle yourself down and prepare to be enlightened...
There are lots of tips and advice in this blog about how to complete your Mystery Blanket, so it's a good idea to read it through to the end before you make a start. And if you need any reminders of knitting techniques, my tech vids are available to you whenever you need them, simply click on the links below:
- How to sew a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge
- How to knit Intarsia
- How to add Swiss Darning to your knitting
- How to Chain Stitch
- How to cable
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work
- How to pick up stitches to knit the next square
- Mattress stitch (horizontal)
- How to knit fairisle
- How to thread beads onto yarn
- Slip-stitch beading
- Hooked-in beads
- Understanding lace stitches
- Square 16, Sandy Squiggles
IF YOU HAVE WATCHED MY INTRO VID THEN YOU WILL KNOW THE TITLE OF THE 2026 MYSTERY BLANKET. However if you have not watched it yet then I will reveal it now...
The title of the 2026 Mystery Blanket is...
S O U L / O F / M O R O C C O
Well done to everyone who guessed it correctly, I hope you enjoyed playing along each month and seeing the design progress as more and more squares were revealed. If you want to find out more about the design and how my inspiration was turned into the forty-nine squares of 'Soul of Morocco', simply scroll back to my intro at the beginning of this blog and all will be revealed!
THE NOVEMBER PRINTED PATTERNS HAVE BEEN POSTED, however some of them may arrive a little late as the mailing of them coincided with a half-term family holiday to Wales, which we have only just returned from.
The UK were posted on the 30th October, and the overseas on the 31st October. So apologies if you are waiting for your copy, but it will arrive soon. In the meantime you can download the digital file from your Debbie Abrahams account on our website which is ready and waiting for you now.
IMPORTANT ADDENDUM FOR SQUARE 27, OPTION TWO, SOUK (printed patterns only): unfortunately it has been noticed after the patterns were printed that the instructions on pages 22-23 are incorrect. This should be a repeat of Square 23 from Mail Out 4, but the pattern instructions are for the other versions of this square, 11 and 39. This square uses multi-coloured beads, not Red and Gold.
If you have our printed patterns, you will need to work from the digital file which has the correct pattern instructions.
BEFORE I DIVE IN WITH ALL THE TIPS AND ADVICE FOR THIS MONTH'S SQUARES AND EDGINGS, just a reminder that memberships for the 2027 Mystery Blanket Club are now limited to the last fifty knitting kits. So if you have enjoyed this year's journey and don't want the experience to end, you can get yourself signed up today to begin a whole new knitting adventure with me in February. It will be a completely different project with a fresh new colour palette and a luxurious combination of yarns including Rowan Felted Tweed and my own new self-branded Wool Alpaca DK. Surely this is too good to miss out on!?!
Here is a reminder of what I have in store for next year...
I made the decision to reveal the theme of the blanket as it was a special twentieth anniversary celebration, and I am so excited to tell you that the theme is...CHRISTMAS!
You can look forward to a very seasonal festive blanket, knitted in the traditional colours of red, green, indigo and white with vibrant splashes of luscious magenta and deep purple. And there will be lots of beads in it too, in super sparkly festive colours, including some exclusive and very special gold and silver plated beads to add a touch of luxury to this very special blanket design.
There is still a big element of 'mystery' as the forty-nine squares will remain a secret until they are revealed in the ten monthly instalments. There is just a glimpse though of what to expect if you take a look at the images on our product page...is that Rudolph the Reindeer I can see?!?
If Christmas is not something you celebrate, then you can still participate and opt for the non-pictorial squares (Option Two) instead which replace the festive motifs with striped, beaded and textured patterns.
As with every Mystery Blanket Club, memberships are limited, so it is advisable to sign up sooner rather than later to avoid disappointment. The club begins February 2027 and runs until November.
If you opt to purchase the knitting kit, you will receive everything you need to knit the whole blanket delivered directly to your doorstep. And with patterns for five to six squares sent to you over a ten-month period, the Mystery Blanket provides you with enough knitting for a whole year!
There will be a choice of two options for the trickier squares (fairisle), enabling knitters of all abilities to participate in this unique knitting experience.
Monthly tech vids in a dedicated blog give you all the help and support you need as you work your way through the forty-nine squares. It's a great way to learn new knitting skills!
What does my membership with a kit include? Each member receives ten sets of emailed patterns and two parcels containing over thirty-five balls of premium quality yarn and embellishments to knit and assemble a blanket. The kit will be posted in two halves with the first one delivered in February, followed by the second one in May.
You can add to your membership ten sets of printed patterns for an additional cost.
Due to recent changes to EU customs rules and regulations, if you live in the EU you won't be able to purchase the membership with knitting kit unless you can provide a non-EU shipping address from which you can collect your parcels.
A Download pattern-only option is available with no knitting kit. We are offering the option of ten sets of patterns a monthly downloads enabling you to use your own yarn and beads to knit the blanket. The list of yarns and beads for the first parcel will be released in January before the club begins. This is a great option for knitters in the EU who can't purchase the knitting kit, but can still sign up and be part of the club.
You don't have to pay for your membership in one go. You can choose to spread your payments over a timescale that suits you and your finances. Simply contact Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com and she will set up a personalised payment plan outside of our online shop directly with you. If you choose this option you can still take advantage of all the Early Bird benefits.
To find out more about the 2027 Mystery Blanket Club, visit the product page on our website, and get yourself signed up today!
I hope you decide to join me on this super sparkly, festive knitting adventure! I just can't wait for it to begin!
OUR SUPER POPULAR FESTIVE MYSTERY KNIT BOXES ARE NOW AVAILABLE TO PRE-ORDER! We have also launched our 2026 Festive Promotion with 10% discount on our festive knitting kits and all of our lovely sparkly beads, and a free pair of Winter Wonderland ready-made socks if you order a Festive Mystery Knit Box. We only have one-hundred boxes available, so place your pre-order today to avoid disappointment.
My Festive Mystery Knit Boxes are a fabulous treat for yourself or a great gift for a friend or relative. Each box has ten gifts including a brand new festive knitting kit designed by me, beauty, stationery, home decor and something sweet to eat. Pre-orders will commence on 1st November, and the boxes will be posted from mid-November.
You might also be interested to know that these new knitting kits are now available in our online shop. Order them today and enjoy 10% discount at checkout:
Kerry Mitts (green or cream colourway): these cable and bead fingerless mitts are the perfect accessory for the colder months ahead. Knitted in Rowan's gorgeous Cashsoft Baby Merino on straight needles, they will keep your hands busy and your mind focused. Available in a choice of two colourways: Green or Cream. This is the project that I designed for the 2025 Stitchtopia Ring of Kerry tour.
Majestic Mitts: fairisle and beads are combined together in these luxurious mitts, knitted in Rowan's super soft Alpaca Soft DK. Knitted on straight needles with a jolly two-colour beaded cast-on, they will brighten up those cold winter days. This is the project that I designed for the 2024 Festive Mystery Knit Boxes.
Precious Purse (navy, purple, blue or silver colourway): if you fancy a quick-to-knit project that looks a million dollars, then this little coin purse is the perfect kit for you! Knitted in Rowan Cotton Glace and encrusted with sparkling beads on both sides, a satin-effect lining and magnetic clasp, it's just pleading to be in your handbag on your next glamorous night out! Available in a choice of four colourways: Navy, Purple, Blue or Silver. This is the Early Bird kit that was included in the 2024 MBC membership.
Festive Gift Bags: this set of small gift bags features four delightful fairisle patterns, reindeers, snowflakes, Christmas trees and dancing folk. The kit includes enough yarn to knit all four gift bags using Rowan's gloriously soft and cosy Alpaca Soft DK. Finished with a satin-effect lining and a silver glitter button, each one is the perfect way to package up a small gift or include on your festive dining table. This is the project that I designed for the 2025 Festive Mystery Knit Boxes.
Seasons Greetings Festive Stocking: deck the halls with this fabulous large Christmas stocking, knitted in Rowans' super soft Alpaca Soft DK. Knitted on straight needles with beaded stripes, fairisle patterns and cute pom-poms, it's sure to bring a whole lot of cheer to your festive household. This is the project that was designed for Black Sheep Wools in 2024.
Christmas Wishes Festive Stocking: why not go for the pair and knit up this alternative stocking to Seasons Greetings! Knitted in Rowans' super soft Alpaca Soft DK and on straight needles it sits perfectly next to it's other half. This is the project that was designed for Black Sheep Wools in 2025.
IN THIS FINAL INSTALMENT THERE ARE FOUR SQUARES TO KNIT UP:
Square 25, Option One: Soul of Morocco - the centre square! Intarsia pattern with slip-stitch beads, embroidery and a button detail:
Square 25, Option Two: Soul of Morocco - the centre square! Three-colour beaded pattern:
Square 26, Option One: Rabat 4 - cable and beads and an intarsia section:
Square 26, Option Two: Rabat 4 - cable and beads and a three-colour slip-stitch section:
Square 27, Option One: Souk - fairisle pattern with hooked-in beads:
Square 27, Option Two: Souk - stocking stitch with hooked-in beads:
Square 28: Aromatic - striped pattern with garter stitch and textured stitches (same for both options):
On each pattern page there is a list of Pattern notes and tips that worth reading before you start to knit each square. This advice will help you and give pre-warnings as to what to look out for in the pattern instructions. Also take note of the description under the title of each square as this tells you what the stitch structure is.
SQUARE 25, OPTION ONE, SOUL OF MOROCCO: this is your first choice for the centre square!
Tech vids to help you with this square:
- How to knit Intarsia
- How to thread beads onto yarn
- Slip-stitch beading
- How to add Swiss Darning to your knitting
- How to Chain Stitch
- How to pick up stitches to knit the next square
- Mattress stitch (horizontal)
You can choose whichever option you want for this centre square, it's entirely up to you!
This option is super busy, with intarsia, embroidery and beads. The intarsia section is actually very easy to knit - it's basically a diamond shape in Peacock with Saffron triangles at the outer edges. So you would only need two balls of Saffron and one ball of Peacock.
Beads are pre-threaded onto Peacock before you join it in on Row 1. Then you will be following the instructions for picking up stitches, which differs depending on the option you chose for Square 24.
Above: the inspiration for the centrepiece of the blanket.
There is a decrease of two stitches on Row 59 which is the last row of the chart on page 7. Note that these two decreases are not shown on the chart, so it is best to follow the written instruction for this row.
The stitches for this square are not cast off. Leave them on a holder or spare needle to be joined later on to Square 26 by a three-needle cast-off.
I would advise that you block and press the square before you embroider it. It is far easier to embroider onto a flat fabric, so it is worth taking the time to do this. If you need any guidance on chain stitch and Swiss-darning, then there are tech vids you can take a look at to help you.
I mentioned in my intro vid that you don't have to stick to my colour choices for this square, so if you fancy changing it up, that is absolutely fine. Changing the colour of the embroidery or of the intarsia could give you a totally different look, so why not give it a go if you fancy making your centre square more unique?
SQUARE 25, OPTION TWO, SOUL OF MOROCCO: this is your alternative choice for the centre square!
Tech vids to help you with this square:
- How to thread beads onto yarn
- Slip-stitch beading
- How to pick up stitches to knit the next square
- Mattress stitch (horizontal)
You can choose whichever option you want for this centre square, it's entirely up to you!
So if you don't fancy intarsia, you can opt for this square instead, which is a complete beading frenzy! So if you love all things super sparkly, go for this option.
There are a LOT of beads in this square, so I've split the bead threading into three batches. The instructions on page 9 are very intensive and need to be followed exactly as written. So it might be a good idea to grab someone to help you out with this. If the instructions are read out, you could then concentrate fully on threading on the beads. It is absolutely crucial that they are threaded on in the correct order otherwise your beaded pattern will not look like the image.
The stitches for this square are not cast off. Leave them on a holder or spare needle to be joined later on to Square 26 by a three-needle cast-off.
So which option are you going to choose? It's over to you...!
SQUARE 26, OPTION ONE, RABAT: this intarsia square is the final piece of the puzzle creating the centrepiece of the blanket.
Tech vids to help you with this square:
You need to choose the same option as you chose for squares 18, 24 and 32.
The first thing to note about this square is that it is knitted separately and joined to Square 26 using a three-needle cast-off. The stitches are not cast-off after the last row has been worked, so they will need to be left on a holder or spare needle. You will see instructions for this on page 15.
This square is exactly the same as Square 24, which sits opposite it in the blanket, above Square 25. You are using Crimson for the cable, lace and bead section, and then the intarsia section is the same as the other three Rabat squares.
When you have completed the last row of the chart, there are instructions for joining Square 25 to Square 26 on page 15. If you have never done a three-needle cast-off before then there are many very helpful vids demonstrating this technique on the internet. Simply search for 'three-needle cast-off' and you will find you have a choice of several vids on YouTube to take a look at. It creates a perfect join, joining stitch to stitch across the two squares.
SQUARE 26, OPTION TWO, RABAT: this is the alternative final Rabat square which completes the centrepiece of the blanket.
Tech vids to help you with this square:
As with Option One, this square is also knitted separately and joined to Square 26 using a three-needle cast-off. The stitches are not cast-off after the last row has been worked, so they will need to be left on a holder or spare needle. You will see instructions for this on page 19.
This square is exactly the same as Square 24, which sits opposite it in the blanket, above Square 25. You are using Crimson for the cable, lace and bead section, and a combination of Rose, Turquoise and Indigo for the slip-stitch section.
There is a decrease of four stitches on Row 74 which is on page 19. The instructions are quite lengthy so it might help to have this read out to you so that you don't make any mistakes. After it has been completed you will have 47 stitches on your needle. Don't cast them off.
When you have completed Row 74 of the instructions, there are instructions for joining Square 25 to Square 26 on page 19. If you have never done a three-needle cast-off before then there are many very helpful vids demonstrating this technique on the internet. Simply search for 'three-needle cast-off' and you will find you have a choice of several vids on YouTube to take a look at. It creates a perfect join, joining stitch to stitch across the two squares.
SQUARE 11, SOUK 2 (OPTION ONE): this is the fourth and final square in the Souk series, it's the same as Square 11.
Tech vids to help you with this square:
- How to carry yarns up the side of the work
- How to pick up stitches to knit the next square
- Mattress stitch (horizontal)
- How to knit fairisle
- Hooked-in beads
To keep the overall design of the blanket balanced I would recommend that you knit the same option that you chose for Square 23.
In this version of Souk you are hooking in Lipstick beads.
Just watch out for the background colour swapping from Peacock to Turquoise on Chart Row 17, and then back to Peacock on Chart Row 33. I missed this and merrily carried on knitting with the incorrect colour until I realised my mistake. Consequently it added on quite a lot of time (and stress!) to this square, so be on your guard!
SQUARE 23, SOUK (OPTION TWO): and this is the alternative option if you don't want to tackle fairisle. Note that there is an addendum for this square (printed patterns only).
Tech vids to help you with this square:
To keep the overall design of the blanket balanced I would recommend that you knit the same option that you chose for Square 23.
This is the square for which there is an addendum in the printed patterns. I talked about it towards the beginning of this blog. The digital file has the correct pattern instructions.
There is a useful hint in the pattern instructions on page 15 of Mail Out 4 (April) about how to keep the beads in the correct colour sequence. Thread them all onto a spare length of yarn following the repeat sequence at the top of page 14, and then you simply slide off one bead at a time as you need them to hook-in.
SQUARE 28, AROMATIC: this stripe combines stocking stitch with garter stitch and some very simple to knit two-colour rows, resulting in a colourful textured pattern. It's the same as square 22 from Mail Out 4.
Tech vids to help you with this square:
I've had a lot of positive feedback about the two versions of this square, so for most of you I hope it's a good one to finish with!
There are two different needle sizes used in this square, with smaller needles recommended to knit the rows of garter stitch. It's important to change needles when instructed to keep your rows of garter stitch beautifully neat and even and avoid wobbly stitches.
You are instructed several times to transfer the stitches back onto the other needle, so it might be better to use either double-pointed or a circular needle to knit this square, then you can just push the stitches to the other end of the needle rather than transferring them across.
Remember to carry any yarns not in use up the side of the work (unless you are instructed to cut them off), to keep them tight and neat against the side edges.
ENJOY!
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR NOVEMBER SQUARES IT IS ADVISABLE TO KNIT THE LEFT AND RIGHT EDGINGS BEFORE YOU SEW THE FINAL STRIP (STRIP 4) INTO PLACE. This is because it will be much easier to pick up the stitches when the blanket is in two pieces, rather than picking them up when the blanket is one whole piece. The instructions for the edging begin on page 27.
If you have knitted your squares separately then you will need to join them together first to create seven strips.
The step-by-step instructions for finishing the blanket are given for both options on page 26.
SO LET'S TAKE A LOOK AT THE EDGINGS AND HOW THEY ARE KNITTED. There is one pattern for the edgings with no second option, so everyone is working from the same pattern. Each edging is knitted in a garter stitch stripe with a textured slip-stitch pattern stitch in the middle.
The edgings are knitted by picking up the stitches along the edge of each square, and they are mitred at each end which means they join perfectly together at the four corners when you sew them together.
I have written a note on page 26 about the colours of the yarns used in the edgings. Each row uses approx. 2g of yarn, so if you are worried that you may run short of any of them, it is advisable to weigh your yarns before you start to ensure you have enough. And if you are going to run out, use other colours from your kit that you do have enough of. Your blanket will still look fabulous, and a slight change to the colours will make it unique!
To knit the edgings you need to use circular needles as there are too many stitches to pick up and knit on straight needles. I used one circular needle to knit each edge and this worked fine with an 80cm length. The sizes you need are stated on page 26, they are 2.75mm (US 2) (UK 12) and 3.50mm (US 4) (UK n/a).
Remember that if you have had to change your main needle size for this blanket, then you will need to make the same changes to the needles for the edgings.
For both options, make sure that you cast off the stitches neatly and evenly as these are finished edges. The edgings are cast off with a 3.50mm needle. You might find it easier to use a straight needle to do this rather than a circular. If you find that your edging is casting off too tightly and pulling in, swap to a size larger needle.
FOR GUIDANCE AS TO HOW TO PICK UP STITCHES FOR THE EDGINGS YOU CAN USE THIS LINK WHICH TAKES YOU TO THE 2021 MYSTERY BLANKET BLOG:
Mystery Blanket Club 2021 Post 10: November (The Final Instalment)
On the pattern pages for each of the edgings I have advised how many stitches to pick up along the edge of each square, so it is essential that you read this very carefully and stick to it so that you achieve the correct amount. This will involve easing-in along some of the squares (ie, picking up 45 stitches along a square that has 53 rows, or 43 stitches along a square that has 51 stitches). When I picked up the stitches I didn't always get the number I needed first time round and sometimes had to go back and forth several times to get it right. So don't worry if this happens to you - it is quite normal and should be expected.
Another thing I did when I picked up the stitches was to put a stitch marker on the needle at the end of each square (you would need six markers along one edge). This made it easier to count the stitches along each square, and it also made it easier to check at the beginning and end of each right-side row that I had done the necessary increases for the mitred edges.
The Stitch and Row Reference diagrams on page 5 show the number of stitches and rows in each square. So this is really helpful to refer to while you are picking up the stitches.
These notes about how to pick up stitches and space them evenly may also be helpful:
- along a side/selvedge edge: the basic rule is to pick up three out of four stitches, however, this will not work with every square in the blanket as the row count is not always the same. So the best way to do this is to plan out the pick up along the edge of each square separately. Place markers at equal points of measurement along the edge of a square and then divide the total number of stitches you need to pick up by the number of sections you have marked out. For example, Square 4 Aromatic has 45 stitches to pick up across 72 rows, so if you divide the edge into five sections of equal measurement, pick up 9 stitches in each section to achieve 45 stitches in total. My suggested technique of how to pick up stitches is as follows: with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the first gap between the bars (in the same place between the stitches that you insert the needle for Mattress stitch, ie, between the edge stitch and the second stitch in). Loop the yarn round the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this for all of the stitches, skipping over some of the gaps if fewer stitches are required, or picking up extra stitches in between if more are required to get the total number of stitches you need.
- along a cast-on/cast-off edge: the basic rule to follow here is to pick up every stitch. So with the right-side of the work facing, take the needle through the middle of the stitch just below the cast-off edge/above the cast-on edge. Loop the yarn round the needle and pull the new stitch through. Repeat this all the way along the edge, making sure that you pick up the correct number of stitches for each square. If the number of stitches is more or less than the number in the square, then skip over stitches if there are fewer to pick up, or pick up between stitches if you need more. As with the side/selvedge pick-ups, if you need to ease-in just make sure that they are spaced evenly along each square. Also remember that where the strips have been sewn together, one stitch from each edge of the squares has been taken into the seams. Note that you are instructed to pick up one stitch on the seams between each square on all four edgings.
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED BOTH SIDE EDGINGS YOU CAN SEW STRIP 4 INTO PLACE. Let's begin with a quick reminder about how to sew together different stitch structures.
These instructions are based on taking the needle under two 'bars' at a time as demonstrated in the tech vid for vertical Mattress stitch. To ease in a row, you will need to take your needle under one less bar on the side you are easing the extra row into.
- Garter stitch rows have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so for every row of garter stitch (which is two knit rows), ease these two rows into one stocking stitch row.
- Slip-stitch beads (and slip-stitch patterns) have a tighter row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in rows it is best to do by taking the needle under more of the beaded rows than the stocking stitch rows.
- Fairisle usually has a looser row tension than stocking stitch, so if you need to ease in some rows it is best to do this by taking the needle under more of the stocking stitch rows than the fairisle rows.
- For a square that has an all-over pattern such as Square 11, Option Two Souk, easings need to spread out evenly across the total number of rows (and not eased in all at one end of the square).
When there are two options for a square, I have given separate instructions for each option, so make sure that you check which instruction you need to follow for your choice of squares.
These are my guidelines but they do not have to be followed if you prefer your own method and calculations.
SEW STRIP 3 (squares 15-21) TO STRIP 4 (squares 22-28)
Sew Square 15 (65 rows) to Square 22 (72 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 22 into Square 15.
Along the edge of Square 15 place a marker on Row 33.
Along the edge of Square 22 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 15 is matched to the marker on Square 22.
Sew Square 16 (61 rows) to Square 23 (Option One) (48 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 16 into Square 23 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 16 is matched to the marker on Square 23.
Sew Square 16 (61 rows) to Square 23 (Option Two) (59 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 16 into Square 23 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 16 place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 16 is matched to the marker on Square 23.
Sew Square 17 (70 rows) to Square 24 (Option One) (63 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 17 into Square 24 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option One) place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 17 is matched to the marker on Square 24.
Sew Square 17 (70 rows) to Square 24 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 24 (Option Two) into Square 17.
Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Ease in 4 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 17 is matched to the marker on Square 24.
Sew Square 18 (Option One) (45 stitches) to Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 18 (Option One) place a marker on stitch 23.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
Sew Square 18 (Option Two) (45 stitches) to Square 25 (Option Two) (67 rows): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 18 (Option Two) place a marker on stitch 23.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 34.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
There are also these options for sewing Square 18 to Square 25:
Sew Square 18 (Option One) (45 stitches) to Square 25 (Option Two) (67 rows): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 18 (Option One) place a marker on stitch 23.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 34.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
Sew Square 18 (Option Two) (45 stitches) to Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 18 (Option Two) place a marker on stitch 23.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 18 is matched to the marker on Square 25. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
Sew Square 19 (70 rows) to Square 26 (Option One) (63 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 19 into Square 26 (Option One). Remember that Square 26 is positioned upside down.
Along the edge of Square 19 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Along the edge of Square 26 (Option One) place a marker on Row 32.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 19 is matched to the marker on Square 26.
Sew Square 19 (70 rows) to Square 26 (Option Two) (74 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 26 (Option Two) into Square 19. Remember that Square 26 is positioned upside down.
Along the edge of Square 17 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Ease in 4 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 19 is matched to the marker on Square 26.
Sew Square 20 (61 rows) to Square 27 (Option One) (48 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 20 into Square 27 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 20 is matched to the marker on Square 27.
Sew Square 20 (61 rows) to Square 27 (Option Two) (59 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 20 into Square 27 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 20 place a marker on Row 31.
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.
Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 20 is matched to the marker on Square 27.
Sew Square 21 (65 rows) to Square 28 (72 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 28 into Square 21.
Along the edge of Square 21 place a marker on Row 33.
Along the edge of Square 28 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 21 is matched to the marker on Square 28.
SEW STRIP 4 (squares 22-28) TO STRIP 5 (squares 29-35)
Sew Square 22 (72 rows) to Square 29 (65 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 22 into Square 29.
Along the edge of Square 22 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 33.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 22 is matched to the marker on Square 29.
Sew Square 23 (Option One) (48 rows) to Square 30 (61 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 29 into Square 23 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.
Along the edge of Square 29 place a marker on Row 31.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 23 is matched to the marker on Square 30.
Sew Square 23 (Option Two) (59 rows) to Square 30 (61 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 29 into Square 23 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 23 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 30 place a marker on Row 31.
Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 23 is matched to the marker on Square 30.
Sew Square 24 (Option One) (63 rows) to Square 31 (70 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 31 into Square 24 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option One) place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 24 is matched to the marker on Square 31.
Sew Square 24 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 31 (70 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 24 (Option Two) into Square 31.
Along the edge of Square 24 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Along the edge of Square 31 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Ease in 4 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 24 is matched to the marker on Square 31.
Sew Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 32 (Option One) (45 stitches): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option One) place a marker on stitch 23.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 25 is matched to the marker on Square 32. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
Sew Square 25 (Option Two) (67 rows) to Square 32 (Option Two) (45 stitches): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 34.
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option Two) place a marker on stitch 23.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 25 is matched to the marker on Square 32. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
There are also these options for sewing Square 25 to Square 32:
Sew Square 25 (Option One) (59 rows) to Square 32 (Option Two) (45 stitches): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option One) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option Two) place a marker on stitch 23.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 25 is matched to the marker on Square 32. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
Sew Square 25 (Option Two) (67 rows) to Square 32 (Option One) (45 stitches): you are sewing a cast-off edge to a selvedge edge.
Along the edge of Square 25 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 34.
Along the edge of Square 32 (Option One) place a marker on stitch 23.
Ease the two squares together, making sure that the marker on Square 25 is matched to the marker on Square 32. Remember that a knitted stitch is wider than the depth of a row.
Sew Square 26 (Option One) (63 rows) to Square 33 (70 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 33 into Square 26 (Option One). Remember that Square 26 is positioned upside down.
Along the edge of Square 26 (Option One) place a marker on Row 32.
Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 26 is matched to the marker on Square 33.
Sew Square 26 (Option Two) (74 rows) to Square 33 (70 rows): you need to ease 4 rows of Square 26 (Option Two) into Square 33. Remember that Square 26 is positioned upside down.
Along the edge of Square 26 (Option Two) place a marker between Rows 37 and 38.
Along the edge of Square 33 place a marker between Rows 35 and 36.
Ease in 4 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 26 is matched to the marker on Square 33.
Sew Square 27 (Option One) (48 rows) to Square 34 (61 rows): you need to ease 13 rows of Square 34 into Square 27 (Option One).
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option One) place a marker between Rows 24 and 25.
Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker on Row 31.
Ease in 13 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 27 is matched to the marker on Square 34.
Sew Square 27 (Option Two) (59 rows) to Square 34 (61 rows): you need to ease 2 rows of Square 34 into Square 27 (Option Two).
Along the edge of Square 27 (Option Two) place a marker on Row 30.
Along the edge of Square 34 place a marker on Row 31.
Ease in 2 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 27 is matched to the marker on Square 34.
Sew Square 28 (72 rows) to Square 35 (65 rows): you need to ease 7 rows of Square 28 into Square 35.
Along the edge of Square 28 place a marker between Rows 36 and 37.
Along the edge of Square 35 place a marker on Row 33.
Ease in 7 rows as evenly as you can across the whole length of the squares, making sure that the marker on Square 28 is matched to the marker on Square 35.
THE PENULTIMATE 'MYSTERY' MEETING AT YARN LOFT IN NOTTINGHAM takes place on Wednesday 11th November. This is a week later than usual as I will be on a Stitchtopia knitting tour of Zurich the week before. So if you usually attend these meetings, kindly note the changed date.
The meetings are a lot of fun, giving everyone who comes along the chance to meet and knit together in a super friendly space for a couple of hours. There is always lots of banter too, plus refreshments provided by Doreen. So if you can make it to the next one, I would love to see you there!
If you want to join us at our next meeting on Wednesday 11th November then we meet between 4:00pm-6:00pm at Yarn Loft which is at 118 Hucknall Road, Carrington, Nottingham NG5 1AD, tel number 07825 702433, website: www.yarnloft.co.uk. There is a small sub of £3.00 to pay to Doreen on the day to cover her opening costs and refreshments.
IF YOU HAVE NOT YET JOINED OUR VIBRANT AND HELPFUL SOCIAL MEDIA GROUPS FOR THE MYSTERY BLANKET, THEN HOP ON BOARD!
You never need to feel that you are on your own when you are part of a Debbie Abrahams Mystery Blanket Club. With social media at our fingertips, we can easily make connections across the world and stay in touch with each other. So if you are not following us on these various different platforms, why not join today!
- Ravelry: this social media platform is super friendly and free to join. You will find on there a group for the Mystery Blanket, with many of the members very willing to give help and advice if you have a question: Debbie Abrahams Handknits.
- Facebook: there are two groups on Facebook, but the one to visit for Mystery Blanket help and advice is: Debbie Abrahams Mystery Knitters. The members here on this platform are also very happy to help each other and share thoughts and comments about the project, so it's well worth joining, and it's free to join too.
These are our other social media platforms. Please follow us on as many as you can to make our Debbie Abrahams world online even bigger and better!
- Instagram: debbieabrahams_knitting
- Pinterest: debbieabrahams@debbieabrahamsk
- Facebook: Debbie Abrahams Handknits
AND FINALLY, I AM THRILLED TO ANNOUNCE THE WINNER OF THE TENTH AND FINAL 2026 MYSTERY BLANKET CLUB FREE PRIZE DRAW! Each month a member is picked at random to win a Debbie Abrahams prize. So it is worth reading my blog from beginning to end every month to check whether you are a winner!
FINAL PRIZE DRAW TEN (NOVEMBER): this months' winner is Member 86, Jayne Wilson from Milton Keynes in the UK. Well done Jayne! Please choose a prize from the following selection and email me with your choice: debbie@debbieabrahams.com.
- Your choice of one of Debbie's knitting kits from our online shop up to the value of £30 (excluding shipping);
- Your choice of six packs of Debbie Abrahams Beads (size 6 and/or size 8) from the selection in our online shop;
- £30 voucher towards a Debbie Abrahams Club (MBC27 or TBBC26);
- A Mystery bag of five gifts.
AND JUST IN CASE YOU WERE A WINNER THIS YEAR BUT HAVE NOT CLAIMED YOUR PRIZE, here is a list of all the winners from February to October. If your name is on the list, then claim your prize by emailing Sue at sue@debbieabrahams.com, and she will get it sorted for you:
- February: Maria Didonna (member 427)
- March: Jacqueline Lund (member 79)
- April: Andrea Fabis (member 132)
- May: Rachel Murphy (member 49)
- June: Felicity Miller (member 169)
- July: Sandy Snoxall (member 189)
- August: Margaret Hall-Craggs (member 11)
- September: Melanie Bibby (member 108)
- October: Malvina Taylor (member 100)
So our journey for this year has come to an end! We have had a super colourful ride through 2026, and I hope you have enjoyed the experience and learnt a lot from taking part in this project. After a couple of months break I start my brand new Mystery Blanket Christmas themed adventure in the new year. Big thanks to everyone who has already signed up, and if you haven't but have been meaning to, why not hop over to our online shop now to get yourself signed up. What would February be without that first set of 'mystery' patterns hitting your inbox!... Enjoy your final squares everyone and I'll see some of you back here in February for the next super exciting MBC! Take care, Debbie xx
